New York Fashion Week for Fall 2012 Kicks Off With BCBG

1:15 PM PST 2/9/2012 by Merle Ginsberg

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Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

It's day one of New York Fashion Week fall 2012, and in the few shows that have already taken place: Gary Graham, Jil Sander Navy, 10 Crosby Street by Derek Lam (all smaller interesting lines), we can report this preemptive trendspotting: color and prints, but no more florals and no more neon.

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Lots of charming close-to-the-body reefer coats, in soft pink and pale blue. Brown is making a comeback, particularly paired with mustard and sienna.

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And color is mixed in as odd way as it is in the spring collections - it's just different colors - red, blue, brown, mustard, pale pink.

Tight pencil skirts seem to have virtually disappeared - the clothes have more volume; sometimes they're even boxy - and when they are, they're much shorter.

The first really major mass-oriented show was BCBG by Max Azria. Here, the lengths were longer - over the knee - and there was a lot of color blocking, but much deeper hues - sometimes 5 different colors in one dress. The deco-looking dresses also combined regular fabrics with lots of sheer inserts, and the skirts of the dresses have long overskirts and shorter fronts, often centered with pleats. It's an interesting new shape.

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And of course, we know within weeks actresses will be wearing fall 2012 looks. We can see these BCBG dresses being donned for fancy lunches, for the Independent Spirit Awards, for nice dinners. They look comfortable and a little bit funky - perfect for Zooey Deschenel.

Giada DeLaurentiis and Maria Menounos were in the front row. Maybe the Hollywood contingent hasn't really arrived yet - but they could be making a showing at Jason Wu tomorrow morning.