Pati Dubroff is a seasoned and reknown makeup artist to many stars, including such beauties as Gwyneth Paltrow, Naomi Watts, Kate Bosworth, Jessica Biel, Eva Mendes, Drew Barrymore -- the list goes on and on. She will apply their makeup for big photo shoots, awards shows, pr appearances on the road, any red carpet appearance, and of course, any commercials or ads they might appear in. Her reputation: Pati will make you look gorgeous, and real -- a tough combo to achieve. She's been the Clarins Celeb Beauty Artist for about a year, and working with the brand that's best known for excellent skincare and skin prep, she's come up with a surefire way to make the skin look perfect (what? actresses don't all have perfect skin?), and she's already got her awards season game on. The Hollywood Reporter talked to the makeup star and got the skinny on skin.
The Hollywood Reporter: So you have some tricks you do before you apply makeup to your celebrity clients -- spill them!
Pati Dubroff: You have to prep the skin! Makeup will only look as good as it's prepped. The skin has to be clean. Then it has to be hydrated, and moisture should be massaged into the skin, not patted on. It ups the circulation. I spray rose water on after. Then I use this Clarins product I can't live without: Instant Smooth. It comes in a little red pot, and fills in pores and matifies. And holds the foundation on. It acts like a soft gauze on a lense. There is also a pen applicator for lines around the eyes. It's the best thing in the world to make foundation stay on! Some actresses do have great skin -- and some need the help of a retoucher and me.
THR: What about the rest of the body?
PD: Clarins has a product called Beauty Flash Balm. It's very popular worldwide, but America has been slow to catch on to it. You touch in on and it's like a radiant boost. Great for the neck area. I'll put it on actresses's hands, too. And of course, I apply various kinds of moisture and makeup to red knuckles and dry cracked ankles. This is why actresses look full body flawless in photos. We want the skin on their entire bodies to appear flawless. They can be retouched in photos -- but on the red carpet, I'm the retoucher!
THR: Awards season is close upon us, and we're seeing the A list stars start to walk the carpet. What do you think the makeup trends will be this season? Shiney? Matte? Red lips? Smokey eyes?
PD: There are essentially three standby's: the red lip, the smokey eye (and you don't combine them), and the fresh face. For lips for fall, there've been more gem tones, aubergine, ruby red. But there are so many events throughout awards season now, there's got to be a variation, or everyone's going to get bored -- actresses and makeup artists included! The actresses are really forced to change up their looks for the Golden Globes, the SAGS and the Oscars. Some women keep a consistent look, like Eva Mendes -- who does not like a red lip. And some vary it all the time. You'll see it all across the board: shiney, matte, pink, red, natural. It should be determined by the dress and the mood the actress wants to convey that night.
THR: Do hair and makeup need to be in synch?
PD: Absolutely. You have to work with the hairdresser for consistency's sake. There has to be a harmony -- if you're doing a fifties look, a sixties look. I just did Felicity Jones' makeup this week, and she had thick bangs and straight hair, so I gave her a total 1960's heavy eye and bare lip. It's one of my favorite periods to emulate.
THR: Tell us about some of your actresses' favorite face looks.
PD: Eva Mendes is great with a smokey eye and natural lip. Kirsten Dunst can do any kind of look, she's a chameleon and loves to change it up. Kate Bosworth is one of my favorite Barbies! She has bright blue eye, classic old Hollywood movie star looks, so she can get all Kate Moss-y with a smokey eye, or go all red lip or even hippie chic. Every city, she's a different girl.
THR: A lot of actresses wear fake lashes for awards shows. What's your philosophy on the heavy lash look?
PD: I'm not much of a trend follower. When you start playing too much with false lashes, you can turn into a characature. There's one celeb who, when I see her, I always think, "Why is there a spider hanging from her eye?" I don't use strip lashes at all. I'm not that girl. Usually male makeup artists do that! I will sometimes fill in space with single hair shorts. I don't do the drag queen lash and I don't do the heavy foundation look. If they want that, they can go to somebody else!