As overstuffed as some of the culinary creations it so prominently puts on display, this sophomore film from noted video/commercial director Bob Giraldi (his other feature, "Hiding Out," was a mere 14 years ago) is an entertaining melodrama and a knowing satire of the modern-day restaurant biz. While "Dinner Rush" ultimately bites off more than it can chew, so to speak, it's plenty engrossing along the way, especially for those who wonder about what exactly goes on behind the kitchen doors of their favorite eatery. Showcased at the New Directors/New Films festival, the film is due for a commercial release in the fall.

Danny Aiello, in a part he fits into as comfortably as an old suit, plays Louis, the owner of Gigino, a beautiful Tribeca restaurant that has patrons clamoring to get in. An old-school Italian, Louis is most comfortable with a heaping plate of pasta, but his son Udo (Edoardo Ballerini), the head chef, has grander ideas, creating the sort of lavish dishes that inspire raves from snooty restaurant critics.

The film takes place during one frenzied evening when everything seems to happen. Louis, who also runs a bookmaking business, is threatened by a pair of thugs (Mike McGlone and Alex Corrado) who, in between courses, make it very clear that they want to take over both of his operations. Because his partner was recently gunned down, Louis takes them very seriously.

Meanwhile, he also must deal with numerous other customers and employees, including a pretentious critic (Sandra Bernhard); a chef (Kirk Acevedo) who's in way over his head with gambling debts; his partner's widow (Polly Draper), for whom he has a deep attraction; a snooty gallery owner (Mark Margolis) who makes a sport of demeaning his waitress (Summer Phoenix); and a Wall Street trader (John Corbett) who watches everything from his perch at the bar with an air of bemusement. "When did eating out become a Broadway show?" he innocently inquires.

While some of the plot elements go over the top and the film's climax isn't nearly as clever as it attempts to be, "Dinner Rush" works because of its fast pacing, down-to-earth dialogue, well-drawn characters and, most importantly, its attention to detail. Giraldi owns more than a few successful restaurants, including the one so prominently and lovingly featured here, and he has perfectly captured the atmosphere of controlled frenzy, conspicuous consumption and forced bonhomie prevalent in so many fancy eateries. And his extensive advertising experience pays off; the film boasts a gorgeous visual style, with the restaurant and food shown off to the best possible advantage. While "Dinner Rush" may or may not succeed, it's a safe bet that business at Giraldi's restaurant is going to skyrocket.

DINNER RUSH
Access Motion Picture Group
Credits:
Director: Bob Giraldi
Screenwriters: Brian Kalata, Rik Shaughnessy
Producers: Lou DiGiaimo, Patti Greaney
Executive producer: Phil Suarez
Photography: Tim Ives
Original music: Alexander Lasarenko
Production designer: Andrew Bernard
Cast:
Louis: Danny Aiello
Udo: Edoardo Ballerini
Nicole: Vivian Wu
Carmen: Mike McGlone
Duncan: Kirk Acevedo
Jennifer Freeley: Sandra Bernhard
Marti: Summer Phoenix
Natalie: Polly Draper
Sean: Jamie Harris
Fitzgerald: Mark Margolis
Ken: John Corbett
No MPAA rating
Color/stereo
Running time -- 100 minutes