Where Hollywood Eats: L.A.'s 20 Hottest Restaurants Right Now (April 2017)

6:00 AM 4/11/2017

by Gary Baum

THR ranks the town's buzziest dining spots — from Kismet to Double Take — for the month of April.

Though few things are more fickle than the entertainment business, the foodie-focused dining scene that serves it surely fits the bill. Ingénue restaurants debut every week, yet their moment in the spotlight often is brutish and short. The Hollywood Reporter ranks the hottest Los Angeles spots on a monthly basis as these dining stars shine and dim.

In April, say hello to Kismet, Beauty & Essex, The Edmon and Double Take. The Cannibal, Sushi Ginza Onodera, Red Herring and Erven have fallen off the chart.

Note: While this list considers the traditional core dining metrics (food, service, value and atmosphere) of the best restaurants, great weight is placed on an ephemeral quality that the entertainment industry treasures: the buzz factor. Think of it as an edible heat index.

  1. 20
    20

    Double Take

    10740 Wilshire Blvd. (New to list)

    Courtesy of Wonho Frank Lee

    QUICK PITCH The former BLVD 16 in the Hotel Palomar along Westwood’s Wilshire Blvd. condo corridor has been reworked into a sleek spot that recalls a studio stage. Bryan Podgorski, who came up under Thomas Keller before serving as the corporate executive chef of iPic, focuses on sharply executed L.A. standards: avocado toast with preserved lemon and spicy radish, a short rib pot roast with pearl onions and parsnips.

    INSIDE DISH There’s a bunch of games redesigned for adults situated throughout – darts, pool and the like. Pro tip: Enjoy the Skee-Ball but request a table far away from its racket.

  2. 19
    20

    Officine Brera

    1331 E. 6th St (Last month: No. 20)

    Ryan Tanaka

    QUICK PITCH Like Bestia, this newcomer has an industrial lofty-chic interior in downtown L.A.’s Arts District and Italian countryside cuisine leaning hard on the handmade pastas and the wood-grilled oven. But Officine Brera is relatively less loud and, at least for the moment, quite a bit easier to book a reservation. The chicken thigh salad with butter lettuce and candied oranges is an understated winner.

    INSIDE DISH Beware the traffic-diverting closure of the historic Sixth Street Bridge (a frequent shooting location, from Grease to The Amazing Race) a gnocchi’s toss away. Its demolition, begun in February, will last through the fall.

  3. 18
    20

    Salazar

    2490 Fletcher Dr. (Last month: No. 19)

    Courtesy of Subject

    QUICK PITCH A former auto body shop in Atwater Village next to the revitalizing Los Angeles River has been converted into a stylish indoor-but-mostly-outdoor ode to mesquite-grilled Mexican cooking: tacos, frijoles, esquites, the occasional heirloom tomato salad. All about al fresco, Salazar’s hang-loose patio offers both surprisingly cheap beer and serious cocktails, the latter from Aaron Melendrez, who’s also behind the bar program at The Normandie Club.

    INSIDE DISH Modernica, the massive industry prop house (a favorite of Mad Men), is a block away.

  4. 17
    20

    Cassia

    1314 7th St. (Last month: No. 16)

    Rick Poon

    QUICK PITCH Chef/owner Bryant Ng's expansive, kinetic riff on Vietnamese-French cooking instantly went from date-night popular and local-foodie-approved to national sensation when it became the subject of The New York Times' first-ever beyond-Gotham starred restaurant review on Sept. 6 (Pete Wells bestowed it with a lordly three.) Everyone orders the kaya toast – a holdover from Ng and wife Kim’s previous spot, The Spice Table, in downtown L.A. – and pot au feu.

    INSIDE DISH Business partners Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan of nearby Rustic Canyon are, respectively, the brother of Third Point hedge fund chief (and Sony nemesis) Dan Loeb and the daughter of Bones executive producer Stephen Nathan.

  5. 16
    20

    The Edmon

    5168 Melrose Ave. (New to list)

    Courtesy of Jesus Banuelos

    QUICK PITCH Steps from the Paramount lot, where Hancock Park merges with Koreatown, this retro-Deco charmer – from the intricate brass front door grate forward, Baz Luhrmann should be earning royalty checks – plays the after-work and date-night hits. That means Dungeness crab cake with sunchoke veloute, roasted half chicken with truffled artichokes and a hefty Tomahawak ribeye with deviled eggs. You're missing out if you're not rounding out your meal with cocktails, which are serious-minded and overseen by a veteran of Harvard & Stone.

    INSIDE DISH It's grown-ups only: The place advertises that it’s a 21-and-over room.

  6. 15
    20

    Gjelina

    1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd. (Last month: No. 15)

    Courtesy of Subject

    QUICK PITCH Along with nearby sister restaurant Gjusta, chef Travis Lett’s Venice vortex for scruffy beards and sexy grilling (pizza, prawns, peppers) is the Southern California restaurant that New York food snobs most outwardly crush hard on. The lunchtime crowd includes workers from nearby Google and SnapChat; by night, the demo shifts toward Tinderati nibbling on radicchio. Beyonce and Jay-Z have been known to make the brunch scene.

    INSIDE DISH The no-substitutions policy is strictly enforced – celebrities included. When she was eight-months-pregnant Victoria Beckham was denied an unadorned smoked trout salad as an aghast dining companion Gordon Ramsay looked on.

  7. 14
    20

    Petit Trois

    718 N. Highland Ave. (Last month: No. 13)

    QUICK PITCH TV chef and critical darling Ludovic Lefebvre’s tiny sparkling French bistro in a drab Hancock Park strip mall – a couple of doors away from his tasting-menu-only Trois Mec – is all about ludicrously refined performance and hyper-compulsive sourcing for the most stupidly fundamental of Gallic specialties. We’re talking escargot, a confit-fried chicken leg, steak frites, a croquet monsieur, the Boursin-stuffed omelette. Even the bread and butter is next-level.

    INSIDE DISH There are no reservations for this narrow, counter-service spot, where Jeffrey Katzenberg and Justin Timberlake have been seen rubbing elbows with everyone else. Expect an automatic 18 percent service charge and credit card payment only.

  8. 13
    20

    Farida

    6266 Sunset Blvd. (Last month: No. 12)

    Courtesy of Farida

    QUICK PITCH George Abou-Daoud, one of resurgent Hollywood’s pioneering neighborhood restaurateurs (Bowery, Delancey), has reworked the longtime Magnolia address into a vibrant, homey modernist room named after his grandmother where he alternatively pays homage and remixes the Mideast flavors of his youth. Aiming for the pre- and post-ArcLight crowds, the kitchen sends out lavender baghrir crepes with honey and chicken shawarma baguettes smeared in spicy tahini. Don’t miss the lamb awarma and hummus preparation featuring beet chips, pickled turnips, figs and cracklings.

    INSIDE DISH Within its opening week Sting was ordering takeout for a performance down the street at the Palladium.

  9. 12
    20

    Manuela

    907 E. 3rd St. (Last month: No. 10)

    Courtesy of Subject

    QUICK PITCH Chef Wes Whitsell, a vet of Gjelina, has conceived a menu rooted in his rural Texan childhood. Like fellow buzzy Arts District redoubt Bestia, the crowd skews early thirties across the sprawling central courtyard space in the austere new Hauser Wirth & Schimmel blue-chip gallery complex. Lean into the spirit: deer burgers, hushpuppies with molasses butter, fried dill pickles, smothered home fries with hot sauce.

    INSIDE DISH The restaurant is named after the gallery’s Swiss partner Manuela Wirth, who along with husband Iwan is one of the most powerful people in the art world.

  10. 11
    20

    The Mar Vista

    12249 Venice Blvd. (Last month: No. 9)

    QUICK PITCH Gentrifying Mar Vista locals, already cheering news of the Santa Monica Airport’s long-hoped-for closure, now can boast a rare destination dining spot offering an assured spin on contemporary California cuisine staples powered by farmer’s market finds. The grape-and-gorgonzola salad with candied garlic is mandatory.

    INSIDE DISH Chef D. Brandon Walker, a winner on the Food Network’s Chopped, previously spent nearly a decade as the executive chef at St. Joseph’s Bread and Roses Café in Venice (which serves more than 750 gourmet meals to the homeless each week) while also working as a private chef for Russell Simmons and Helen Hunt.

  11. 10
    20

    Bestia

    2121 E. 7th Pl. (Last month: No. 8)

    QUICK PITCH The entertainment industry’s go-to downtown L.A. destination restaurant is situated in the warehouse-strewn Arts District, just west of a still-dystopian stretch of the Los Angeles River. The incredibly loud, reliably accomplished, contempo-agro rustic Italian concept – where tattoos and tagliatelle appear to be worshipped in equal measure – is best known for its wood-fired pizzas and handmade pastas. Don’t miss the smoked chicken liver pate.

    INSIDE DISH By far the oldest spot on this list, Bestia, which opened in late 2012, remains an impossible Saturday dinner reservation (at least at a non-absurd hour) – unless, of course, someone has a connection.

  12. 9
    20

    Catch

    8715 Melrose Ave. (Last month: No. 7)

    Courtesy of Subject

    QUICK PITCH The seafood super-scene that originated in Manhattan's Meatpacking District has bowed on a lush, expansive rooftop across the street from the Pacific Design Center and incited an immediate feeding frenzy. Find A$AP Rocky powwowing with Chris Brown, Sylvester Stallone and Jerry Bruckheimer each holding court, along with half the Clippers in residence on a single night. (Everyone from Ari Emanuel to Kendall Jenner have also been in.) No wonder the place has quickly grown polarizing for its rare-for-L.A. restaurant doorman.

    INSIDE DISH Given the overwhelming popularity, Catch's owners say they've temporarily suspended its OpenTable account, opting only to accept reservations from would-be diners they know.

  13. 8
    20

    Jon & Vinny's

    412 N. Fairfax Ave. (Last month: No. 6)

    Wonho Frank Lee

    QUICK PITCH Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun) have started elevating red-sauce Italian basics – pizzas, pastas, salads – much like their Trois Mec partner Ludovic Lefebvre did for French bistro classics at Petit Trois last year: amp them up with top-shelf ingredients and finely calibrated technique. Chef director Jon Favreau has already popped into the kitchen while Jimmy Kimmel and Kanye West have each sidled up to the host stand.

    INSIDE DISH The Little Nats pizza – pepperoni, tomato, oregano, parmesan – is named after Shook’s two-year-old daughter Natalie with UnREAL star Shiri Appleby.

  14. 7
    20

    Delilah

    7969 Santa Monica Blvd. (Last month: No. 3)

    QUICK PITCH John Terzian, who’s been leveraging lush midcentury nostalgia at the popular Nice Guy on La Cienega Blvd. for two years, melds his childhood memories of Hollywood dinners at Chasen’s with a meticulous Baz-does-Gatsby swoon for Art Deco. The menu is contempo-traditional American brasserie, where there’s an expertly cooked filet mignon but a Portobello mushroom steak with chimichurri dressing and yucca fries too. Don’t miss the carrot soufflé.

    INSIDE DISH Six years ago, when the place was still S&M-themed club Voyeur, the Republican National Committee erupted in scandal over a $2,000 tab filed with the Federal Election Commission.

     

  15. 6
    20

    Gwen

    6600 Sunset Blvd. (Last month: No. 5)

    QUICK PITCH Right out of the gate the most ambitious and accomplished restaurant in Hollywood by a mile, TV chef Curtis Stone’s successor (with brother Luke) to the far tinier Maude in Beverly Hills is likewise tasting-menu-only. The five-course dinner in the modern-Deco dining room, which begins with a selection of housemade charcuterie, is anchored by what’s broken down at their adjacent custom-and-cut butcher shop (lamb, duck) and then cooked multiple ways. Ben Aviram, previously at The French Laundry and Alinea, runs the wine program.


    INSIDE DISH Gwen, like Maude, is named after Stone’s grandmother. 

  16. 5
    20

    Beauty & Essex

    1615 Cahuenga Blvd. (New to list)

    Courtesy of Beauty & Essex

    QUICK PITCH The TAO Group, known for its glitzy operations in Manhattan and Vegas, brings one of its gild-the-lily concepts to Hollywood's Cahuenga Corridor with this bacchanalian 10,000-square-foot club-staurant heavy on poke tacos, bone-in ribeye steaks and a whole lot of champagne. Chef-partner Chris Santos’s postmodern polyglot fusion cuisine aims to crowd-please. (Think grilled cheese and tomato soup dumplings, or Mexican street corn ravioli.)

    INSIDE DISH It's 2017 and we're still in the grip of the fetish-fad for faux-speakeasy entrances, so you'll be arriving through an ersatz pawn shop in an alley off Selma Ave.

  17. 4
    20

    Here's Looking At You

    3901 W. 6th St. (Last month: No. 4)

    QUICK PITCH A pair of vets from Animal have made off with some of that pioneering late-aughties restaurant's inventive creative energy and neighborhood-establishing vibe as they help fellow newbies Horse's Mouth and Terra Cotta transform western Koreatown into a white-hot dining destination. Expect to find the unabashed New Fusion on display (and an Animal-style no-modifications-and-substitutions policy): stracciatella cheese in league with yuzu kosho, blood mole paired with Asian pear.


    INSIDE DISH Nope, the restaurant's oddball name isn't a reference to Casablanca. Co-owner Lien Ta swiped the expression from an old greeting card she saw.

  18. 3
    20

    Nerano

    9960 S. Santa Monica Blvd. (Last month: No. 1)

    Courtesy of Rob Stark

    QUICK PITCH Power dining nexus Toscana's spiritual sequel has arrived at the edge of Beverly Hills, across from the Beverly Hilton and a doable walk from Century City. Co-owner Andy Brandon-Gordon conjures the Amalfi Coast in a refined, intimate modernist dining room, leaning hard on a staff pulled from his father Michael Gordon’s pedigreed Brentwood restaurant. The grilled crostino with Apulian burrata and Santa Barbara uni can’t be beat.

    INSIDE DISH The deal-making gang's all here (Harry Sloan, Ken Ziffren, Steve Tisch) every night. Meanwhile, the upstarts are flirting upstairs in the cocktail lounge.

  19. 2
    20

    The Ponte

    8265 Beverly Blvd. (Last month: No. 2)

    Dustin Downing

    QUICK PITCH Prolific L.A. restaurateur Stephane Bombet (Faith & Flower, Hanjip) has pivoted his indoor-outdoor Cali-French brasserie Terrine into this elegantly by-the-book Italian spot that recalls the Beverly Grove address’ years-ago industry prominence as Pane e Vino. (The twinkle-lit rear patio is in full effect.) New York chef Scott Conant is in charge of the kitchen, which means his pasta al pomodoro – the cult favorite at his shuttered Scarpetta at the Montage – is back.

    INSIDE DISH Italy’s romance with the after-dinner digestif amaro manifests itself in bar program director Ryan Wainwright’s nearly 70 offerings of bitters, including a variety of rare and vintage bottles.

  20. 1
    20

    Kismet

    4648 Hollywood Blvd. (New to list)

    Courtesy of Joshua White

    QUICK PITCH Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson, Brooklyn transplants (they made their names at Glasserie) who first opened the new-school falafel stand Madcapra at the revivified Grand Central Market, have stepped up their game with this avant-garde Mediterranean mash-up in Los Feliz. The Instagram force is strong with this one. (That jewel-box white-on-light dining room helps.) Romantic, layered dishes incorporating shaved Kohlrabi, Persian cucumbers and labneh target everyone with a well-worn copy of Yotam Ottolenghi and Sam Tamimi's Jerusalem cookbook.

    INSIDE DISH Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, responsible for several other restaurants currently on this list, are management partners in the endeavor.

comments powered by Disqus