The 10 Buzziest Takeaways from Paris Fashion Week
The highlights: Wigs, the ‘80s and a wiener dog (bag) named Hector.
Paris Fashion Week has come and gone, and there was plenty to take in this season — that is, in addition to the clothes (and hair and makeup and accessories). In case you missed it, here's a brief rundown of the buzziest news from the City of Light's fashion bonanza.
1. The “no hairstyle” hairstyle is in, and the “no makeup makeup” is out.
Rather than one standout hairstyle to rule them all, models hit the runway rocking their natural textures and colors. While there were a few exceptions, the “no hairstyle hairstyle” is being widely accepted as the new “no makeup makeup” look — speaking of which, is on it’s way out. Glitter (Giambattista Valli), electric smokey shadows (Saint Laurent) and dark lacquered lips (Dior) ruled on the beauty front.
2. Dior did well sans creative director.
Reviews for Dior were by no means on par with the stellar praise that Raf Simons received during his brief turn at the wheel, but they were more positive than not. The creative team did well to keep the collection in line with the direction that Simons had laid the groundwork for, while not attempting anything too risky.
3. Lanvin did not do well sans creative director.
Critics did not take well to Lanvin’s first showing since the departure of the beloved Israeli designer Alber Elbaz. Even showgoers were “unsure” about how much to applaud, with several looking vaguely disinterested.
4. Bouchra Jarrar is Lanvin’s rumored new womenswear designer.
Following the panned show, WWD reported that Lanvin was in the stages of finalizing a contract with French designer Bouchra Jarrar to fill the position of womenswear designer for the fashion house. The relatively unknown designer worked with Nicolas Ghesquiere during his time at Balenciaga before launching her own line in 2010. (See more about Jarrar here.)
5. Hedi Slimane debuted first Saint Laurent couture collection, and did not announce departure.
Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent show was arguably one of the most hotly anticipated presentations of the week, especially given the rumors that the show would be his last for the French fashion house. Show-goers were certainly in for a surprise, but not necessarily the one they were expecting. "Part 2" of Saint Laurent's fall presentation turned out to be a couture show, Slimane's first for Saint Laurent and the brand's first since 2002.
6. New York Mag fashion critic Cathy Horyn’s Thom Browne wiener dog bag, Hector, became a social media sensation.
Cathy Horyn, fashion critic for New York Mag’s style section, The Cut, got her first taste of street-style stardom thanks to a wire-hair dachshund purse on loan from Thom Browne. The bag, named Hector, went viral after Horyn was spotted toting it around Paris, even nabbing the attention of Demna Gvasalia, who greeted Hector by name.
7. Some shows cast women of all shapes and sizes, while others cast all-white models only.
While shows including Balmain and H&M went out of their way to cast a diverse range of models — including 65-year-old catwalk vet Pat Cleveland, plus-size activist Ashley Graham and transgender model/actress Hari Nef — other shows were notably, well, white. Demna Gvasalia’s two collections, Vetements and Balenciaga, lacked any models of color, as did Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent couture show.
8. Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga was a mixed bag.
Demna Gvasalia made his debut for Balenciaga since being hired as Alexander Wang’s successor at the end of last year. Gvasalia infused the same street-style savvy which sky-rocketed his design collective Vetements to fame, but added a nod to Balenciaga’s tailor-heavy heritage. The result included pieces with carefully structured, almost architectural detail in the form of opera collars and volume at the hips. Robin Givhan of The Washington Post called the collection a success, however not all were quite as kind on social media.
9. The ‘80s returned in full force.
The ghosts of the ‘90s were alive and well last season, but this time around, designers brought the ‘80s back to life. Flashy, single-shoulder minis (Saint Laurent), oversize, costume-esque jewelry (Chanel) and boxy puffer jackets (Stella McCartney) made their way into the 21st century.
10. Wigs were a hit at Balmain.
Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner had us doing double-takes at the Balmain show, as they stepped out sporting each other’s natural hair hue. Other supermodels, including Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Karlie Kloss, also hit the catwalk in new colors thanks to wigs by hairstylist Sam McKnight and his team. Hollywood’s wig experts weighed in, and deemed the looks a success.