From Runway to Red Carpet? Baggy, Pleated Men's Pants Return to Fashion
Giorgio Armani, Fendi and Etro sent models in loose, tailored trousers that celeb men's stylist Jeanne Yang says can be "a very hard look to pull off unless worn simply and tailored impeccably."
Skinny pants, be gone! If the spring 2017 collections from men's fashion week in Milan are any indication of what's to come, guys may want to trade in their skintight Hedi Slimane-inspired silhouettes for looser, more voluminous trousers.
Giorgio Armani presented a collection Tuesday that featured casual, yet tailored pants in shades of red, white and blue (as well as gingham and grey), and harkened back to the relaxed look he made famous in the 1980s, namely the slouchy suits worn by Richard Gere in American Gigolo, as well as by such L.A. style icons as former L.A. Laker coach Pat Riley and Miami Vice star Don Johnson.
At the Fendi show, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi showed a line full of rich patterns and textures (think blue-and-yellow stripes, head-to-toe floral prints and a bright green fur coat) that was complemented by a number of pleated pants in earthy tones.
Tomas Maier introduced models in loose-fitted, high-waisted trousers and oxfords at Bottega Veneta — not unlike the zoot suits of the 1940s. (A rare zoot suit is on display at the "Reigning Men" exhibition at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.)
Not only did designer Kean Etro send his models down the runway in oversized bottoms full of colorful patterns, prints and stripes, he recruited his friends and family to be the runway models for his Etro show, proving that everyday men could pull of the look — with the right styling, of course.
Celebrity men's stylist Jeanne Yang, whose clients include Matt Bomer, Scott Eastwood and Alexander Skarsgard, admits that the relaxed pants shape is "a very hard look to pull off unless worn simply and tailored impeccably."
Her advice? "The trousers look best worn with a t-shirt and a pair of brogues or oxfords with no socks or a close fitting double breasted coat," says Yang, who tells Pret-a-Reporter that she's recently tried the relaxed fit with her clients, including Eastwood in Taylor Swift's "Wildest Dreams" video and Bomer for The Nice Guys press tour.
On the other hand, style consultant Andrew Weitz of The Weitz Effect recommends pairing it with "a slip-on sneaker or shoe with the invisible sock, a cool knit or casual button-up shirt and a well-tailored, but hip, casual blazer."
WHO WEARS THE PANTS: Scott Eastwood in Taylor Swift's "Wildest Dreams" video (Photo: Screenshot)
"The baggy pant has to really be carefully tailored," she advises. "It cannot be too big or you look like a clown. It has to be slim cut and tailored close to the body."
Josh Peskowitz, co-founder of menswear store Magasin at Culver City's Platform, agrees that it's "not for everyone," but notes, "drape and fabric choice are key to pulling it off."
The move towards voluminous trousers has been more prevalent in recent years, and according to Peskowitz, "[it's] a reaction to the super slim silhouette that has dominated for so long."
The former Bloomingdale's men's fashion director points out that he's seen success with what he calls a "carrot fit," which "has more volume but then tapers from the knee to the ankle. This is the most flattering cut for many men and feels modern." (Stylist Ilaria Urbinati, who styles many of Hollywood's leading men including Ryan Reynolds and Chris Pine, is also a fan of the cut.)
"It takes a very confident man to wear something so fashionable," Yang concludes. So, who's up for the style challenge?