Pret-a-Reporter

Dior Shows How to Master Bold Brows and the Matte No-Makeup Makeup Look Sans Powder

Carol McColgin
Models backstage at the fall/winter 2017 Dior Haute Couture show on July 3, 2017

Quintessential French girl was de rigueur, with nary a swipe of lipstick or mascara, but rather a dewless complexion and bushy brows.

The French-girl no-makeup makeup look isn't going anywhere. Models at the fall/winter 2017 Dior Haute Couture show stepped out sans blush, lipstick, eyeliner or mascara.

"I used matte foundation and semimatte concealer for a clean, glow-free complexion," said creative and image director for Dior Makeup Peter Philips, who noted the importance of not using any powder whatsoever. "The focus is healthy [albeit not dewy] skin and full eyebrows that are a little bit bushy."

Philips applied Diorskin Forever foundation, which, once set, instantly offers a shine-free complexion. "I usually use Dior’s Star Foundation, which is more glowy, but the Forever foundation has a matte, powdery effect."

Dior’s brow game wasn’t a fully drawn-in, overly pronounced power arch, a la Cara Delevingne, but more sporadic, wild and ungroomed. "It’s sort of a man brow," said Philips, who used the Diorshow Brow Styler pencil in a "non-orange, ashy tone" to draw in a few hairs here and there ("don’t fill in too much, but keep a bit of transparency for something natural") before mussing brows up with the new Diorshow Bold Brow mascara in shades No. 11 and No. 21. "Don’t slide mascara through the brows, but rather make quick swipes up with the brush," advised Philips.

The overall inspiration was an image of Amelia Earhart that Dior artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri pulled for her preshow powwow with Philips. Luckily, the modern Dior woman is well-traveled and adventurous, just like the turn-of-the-century women who inspired Chiuri’s collection — but without any unwanted bags under the eyes.

"On the catwalk, the fearless female explorer doesn’t have dark circles," joked Philips, who used Diorskin Forever Undercover Concealer along with warm chamomile tea bags to help calm models’ tired and puffy eyes backstage. "Place warm tea bags on the eyes and wait for them to cool down — it will help get rid of any swelling. It’s also a great jet-lag trick."

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