The Eat Sheet: Hot New Restaurant -- Cooks County

The Quick Pitch: Husband-and-wife owners Claudio Blotta and Adria Tennor, of Silver Lake’s small-plates-focused Barbrix, team up with kitchen duo Dan Mattern and Roxana Jullapat, formerly chef and pastry chef of New American-style industry hangout Ammo in Hollywood. The mid-sized mid-city restaurant serves a California rustic menu.

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The Insider’s Dish: Tennor, an actress who’s appeared on Mad Men in the past, has a small role in Oscar-buzzed The Artist as the secretary to John Goodman’s studio honcho.

The Must-Order Item: Crowd-pleasing “spretzels” with mustard dipping sauce. They’re pretzels made out of spelt flour.

The Best Table: No. 12, a relatively secluded four-top in the small front window on the west side of the room.

The Industry Neighbor: CBS Television City is less than four blocks east.

8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.653.8009, cookscountyrestaurant.com