Pret-a-Reporter

At Hugo Boss, Jason Wu Shows Brightest Collection Yet

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Hugo Boss' spring 2017 presentation

Inspired by David Hockney, the spring collection packs a punch of color.

A futuristic, virtual reality experience was the big buzz at Boss this season. However, for the actual clothes, designer Jason Wu took it back to the 1960s.

Painter David Hockney’s pool series was the designer’s jumping-off point; he referenced the artist’s works in color, construction as well as function — each look was paired with criss-cross strap pool slides. (Hockney is a popular man this season; Thom Browne also referenced the painter's pool series for his spring 2017 collection, though the the execution was miles different.)


WHO'S THE BOSS: Looks from Hugo Boss' spring 2017 presentation. (Photo: Getty Images)

Drawstring details, adjustable straps and oversize cargo pockets lent a sporty vibe, as did the layering of mesh, calf-length dresses over solid slips. Fine tailoring in the form of razor-sharp pleats and structured paper bag shorts, as well as the signature BOSS Bespoke bag (the only item available immediately following the show), anchored the collection.

For his sixth line for the German brand, Wu also embraced a brighter color palette. The striking green, red and sapphire hues created a stark contrast against one another that was at once bold and yet not too flamboyant for the Boss customer. And though Hockney was the man of the hour, the wavy, floral camouflage print seen as a jacquard on pristinely tailored jackets brought to mind one of his contemporaries, Ellsworth Kelly, and his series of elegant green, red and blue works.


BOSS LADY: Karlie Kloss at the Hugo Boss spring 2017 show. (Photo: Ben Gabbe/Getty Images)

The almost amoeba-like shapes were reminiscent of Lupita Nyong'o's sequined, off-the-shoulder Tony Awards gown from earlier this year, a custom design that landed the actress on every best-dressed list. With the Emmys coming up this Sunday, perhaps we might see a nominee (Tatiana Maslany or Robin Wright, perhaps?) in a custom creation, or an amazing red-carpet pantsuit for that matter, like the white ensemble Karlie Kloss wore front row at the presentation.

As for the virtual reality experience — that was more for the viewers at home. Before stepping on to the runway, models were filmed in 360 degrees in a special room lined with the colorful camo. With special glasses, customers can get access to exclusive show content online, including an up-close look at the pieces.  

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