Pret-a-Reporter

Paris Fashion Week: John Galliano Sees Military Might on the Runway

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Edie Campbell on the John Galliano fall 2016 runway.

Designer Bill Gaytten soldiered on with military coats and Edwardian jackets for fall.

Designer Bill Gaytten soldiered on, helming the John Galliano label while its namesake is making waves across town at Maison Margiela. And soldier he did, with military coats and Edwardian jackets that were as sharply tailored as they were sporty.

While Galliano himself has reinvented himself post-scandale at Margiela, former assistant Gaytten has positioned the brand in as more wearable. The coats were masterful, if slightly oversized but still sharp with strong shoulders and taut collars.

MARCH ON: Models on the John Galliano fall 2016 runway. (Photos: Getty Images:

Only Pride and Prejudice-style Empire waist dresses felt out of place amongst all the strong tailoring. Cut the hems and perhaps they’d fly at Coachella in all their ethereal lace, but in full length they felt too much like a Keira Knightley costume. Sadly, there was no Matthew MacFayden in sight.

But Kelly Rowland and Hamilton Lewis were there, sitting front row. The duo have been making the rounds this fashion week, not together but popping up at several shows. Lewis said he’s taking a training break ahead of his next Formula One circuit, but fashion, while it certainly does look back for cues, doesn’t stop.

A completely contemporary black layered gown and a delicate dropped-waist ballerina dress were less referential and will should find their way to the red carpet soon as the brand continues to revitalize.

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