New York Fashion Week: These Designers Traded the Runway for GIFs and Gallery Prints
Sally LaPointe's video installation was meant to create a "voyeuristic allure," while Zac Posen's gallery-like display was a comment on how we communicate today.
Sally LaPointe opted out of showing in the typical runway format for her latest show Tuesday. Instead, the designer went digital.
Held in a dark warehouse-like space, LaPointe's' fall presentation was shown as a video installation. There were 16 screens, each featuring a model as moving GIF in her own look. One model, clad in a black turtleneck and leather jacket with space-age sunglasses, was seen bopping her head up and down, while others smoked cigs or flipped their hair, Boomerang style.
"The concept started with this idea of intimacy. We wanted to create this sort of voyeuristic allure and draw people in," said LaPointe, who partnered with video director Alvaro Colom on the project.
LaPointe's decision to digitally display her latest offering brought to mind that time Off-White's Virgil Abloh shared with The Hollywood Reporter that he liked to see his clothes through an iPhone screen since that's how people see themselves in clothes nowadays. Designer Misha Nonoo has also shown her collections via Snapchat and Instagram rather than on the runway.
"It felt very now," LaPointe told THR, echoing a similar sentiment. "The idea of doing larger-than-life GIFs or a Boomerang series, it felt like it was speaking to this generation." (Guilty for taking a Boomerang of the Boomerang, as evidenced in the tweet above.)
The actual clothes were there for all to see, too. In the back, attendees could get up close and personal with the fox fur, feathers, sequins, velvet and lace. There were oversized fur outerwear, a navy coat with feathered sleeves, silver sequined v-neck top with black perforated pants and an olive green turtleneck paired with a pailette-embellished skirt.
"Having the clothes back there felt like a classic couture presentation, but then you've got this modern art that's very today," added LaPointe, whose designs have recently been seen on Hailey Baldwin, Kerry Washington and Priyanka Chopra.
LaPointe wasn't the only designer to go in a different direction this season; Zac Posen invited guests to view museum-quality photographs of his collection, rather than the clothes themselves. He presented the exhibition in his former studio on Laight Street in Soho. (His studio is now in Midtown.) The large portraits, photographed by Posen's longtime friend and collaborator Vanina Sorrenti, starred Jourdan Dunn, Hilary Rhoda, Lindsay Wixson and Carolyn Murphy in the designer's collection of sculptural gowns.
If the approach feels like putting a positive spin on a money-saving format, Posen begs to differ: "I wanted to talk about how we communicate today, to give everyone the same image and viewpoint," he said, adding that the photographs were shot a week ago in his family loft on Spring Street, with his father's art in background. "It's also about not letting the cat out of the bag and being able to present the rest of the collection closer to when it will be in stores." Sounds like Posen could be headed for a see-now, buy-now presentation next.