Pret-a-Reporter

NYFW Day 5: Fashion's Velvet Crush; Shayne Oliver's Kinky Boots; Altuzarra's Juice

Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/FilmMagic
Models on the Altuzarra spring 2017 runway.

THR's senior fashion editor Booth Moore reports on the glitzy coming and goings on day 5 of New York Fashion Week.

Day 5 of New York Fashion Week started with the Beckhams and a moment of silence for the Sept. 11 victims, and ended with Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein Rocking The Vote on the runway at Opening Ceremony, along with Rashida Jones, Whoopi Goldberg and more.

In between was a runway show sponsored by a porn site (Hood by Air) and a fruit salad of chic from Joseph Altuzarra.

Here are my takeaways.

Velvet, fashion's favorite new fabric

With street style stars and editors donning velvet sandals, and Taylor Swift modeling over-the-knee red velvet Stuart Weitzman boots, even in the sweltering September heat this week, fashion’s latest love affair is swinging into high gear. And judging from the runways, it's not going away anytime soon.

At her show Sunday morning, Victoria Beckham made a case for wearing velvet all-year long, by showing dresses and skirts in vibrant mint green and orange velvet in her spring 2017 collection. Combined with pajama-like silk pants suits, and sleeveless dresses with low slung, D-ring belts, the collection was louche luxe at its best.

Up-and-coming designer Sies Marjan (already worn by Beyonce) also dabbled in the soft stuff for spring, with crushed velvet slip dresses and wrap tops in hot hues.
VELVET CRUSH: A model on the Victoria Beckham spring 2017 runway. (Photo: Peter White/Getty Images)

Why wear two boots when you can wear four?

Not only did Shayne Oliver, designer darling of gender-bending streetwear label Hood By Air, draw an impressive celebrity crowd to his front row (Jaden Smith, Naomi Campbell, Jussie Smollett), and earn the distinction of garnering what could be the first porn site fashion show sponsor (Porn Hub), he also showed some of the craziest looking footwear to ever walk a runway. Able to be seen both coming and going, the bi-directional cowboy boots had two toes each. We know Rihanna’s an HBA fan, will she be the first to rock the kinky boots in real life?
KINKY BOOTS: A model on the Hood by Air spring 2017 runway. (Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images)

Joseph Altuzarra keeps the juice going

Known for his signature side slit pencil skirt silhouette, Joseph Altuzarra is a designer who keeps sex appeal in mind. For spring, he took inspiration from David Lynch’s 1990 film, Wild at Heart, injecting his sultry, sophisticated style with a welcome jolt of whimsy, too.

Among the more memorable pieces were a python coat embroidered with cherries, cherry-patterned stockings, and shoes with jeweled fruit charms on top. He also showed his go-to blazers and pencil skirts, paired with ruffled bras or off-shoulder sweaters. For evening, gowns were embroidered with sequin cherries, pineapples and more. Capri pants with flounced hems were also cheeky fun. Amazingly, none of it crossed the line into saccharine. In other words, there was still plenty here for grown-ups.

Altuzarra is the rare talent to emerge from the New York scene in the past 10 years with a truly identifiable style. Yet, he still manages to surprise us enough each season to keep the juice going.


PINEAPPLE EXPRESS: A model on the Altuzarra spring 2017 runway. (Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images)

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