Pret-a-Reporter

NYFW Beauty: Miley Cyrus Is Jeremy Scott's Muse

AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews
A model on the Jeremy Scott runway

The outlandish designer's backstage beauty team explains the hippie surfer girl look of his spring 2015 show

Jeremy Scott is certainly not known for understated. But the beauty look at his spring 2015 show — for which Miley Cyrus created the accessories and jewelry — could be described as such. “These are hippie surfers, but their clothes are nice,” says celebrity makeup artist Kabuki, who created a dewy, sun-kissed look using peachy and orange MAC cream colors he blended on his hand for each model. “They’re not poor surfers or hippies,” he continued. “It’s like they all came back on a private jet from the beach where they were just partying. We hate them.”

He used his finger to blend his mixture across the cheeks, over the nose and on the top of the forehead, “so it looks real,” he said. Other than that, the makeup was barely there: no eye makeup, curled but bare lashes, slightly groomed brows and zero lipstick. “I wanted that look of sunburned hippie,” said Kabuki, “to go with the beachy hair.”

That hair was conceived by Eugene Souleiman, global creative director of care and styling for Wella, and it epitomized Scott’s fun, carefree vibe. Each girl sported a different version of sea-salt-indebted texture and braids in unusual places. “It’s like they’ve been on a beach somewhere fiddling with their hair — there are little quirks, little details,” he said. “There’s something spontaneous and organic about it, like they’re not aware of what they were doing because they were thinking about something.”

The stylist used Wella Ocean Spritz Dry on the models’ hair and massaged it in before adding those little quirks — tiny braids, larger ones, even crimping some pieces. To finish the braids and eliminate the need for an elastic, he back-combed the ends and messed them up a bit. “People are bored of seeing the same thing,” he commented on the individuality of what they did. “They’re bored of the ‘new’ ponytail, the ‘new’ bun, the ‘new’ French twist. This is really just less considered and freer. I’m not even really looking — I’m looking for an accident to happen that’s really great.”

When it came to the nails, Miss Pop, using OPI, took the same free-spirited approach. She and her team of nail technicians used several super easy techniques — wiping the polish brush back and forth to create beachy waves of color, for example — to create multi-colored nail art that was different on every single nail, for every single one of the 40 models. Even the guys got the artistic treatment — some even on their toes.

“Each Jeremy Scott girl is different in her personality,” said Miss Pop. “This is about talking to the beautiful model and seeing her gypsy a little and bringing that to her nails.” The look was so simple it didn’t even include a topcoat. Added Miss Pop: “They’re at the beach; they’re not bringing topcoat — they’ll get sand in it!”

ON THE RUNWAY: Miley Cyrus and Jeremy Scott (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

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