NYFW Beauty: Glossy Eyes and Cheekbones Shine at Opening Ceremony
Chalk it up to the greenhouse effect.
If models looked a bit schvitzy on the jungle-like runway for Opening Ceremony's celeb-attended show (Kylie Jenner, Miguel, Laverne Cox and Natasha Lyonne), on Sunday night, it’s because they sort of were — but on purpose.
"The collection is in collaboration with the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation, and the runway had vestiges or ruins of architecture built into the environment, but the juxtaposition of that is this beautiful botanical jungle with flora and fauna — almost like a greenhouse,” explains lead NARS makeup artist James Boehmer.
"For the makeup we liked this idea of hot house flowers, so creating this effect on the skin of the condensation that gathers on a plant when it’s in a greenhouse." That was done by using a couple products in innovative ways. "We made the eyelids really glossy with Triple X Lip Gloss ($26) from NARS, also on the cheeks and bridge of the nose," says Boehmer. (Rachel Antonoff’s models were also made up with a dewy, gleaming effect courtesy of Elizabeth Arden Crystal Clear Lip Gloss applied around the upper cheekbones and orbital bone.)
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Conversely, the makeup artist used an eyeshadow — a new lilac-hued Spring 2016 shade called Kari — in lieu of lipstick. "With the Dual Intensity Eyeshadow ($33) formula when you wet it becomes almost like a watercolor glaze but really opaque," he says. Meanwhile, hair featured a deep side part with plenty of volume, texture and a swoop in the vein of Cindy Crawford, by Anthony Turner for Bumble and Bumble. As for the finishing touch, it was courtesy of more gloss, but again, not on the lips.
"We’re painting it on the eyelids, pressing it into the skin and we’re creating like controlled sweat," explains Boehmer. "If you’re steamy in a sauna maybe how you’d want to look when you come out — we’re taking some of the Triple X Lip Gloss and putting a little bead of perspiration on the upper lip so they look like they’ve just stepped out of this beautiful greenhouse." This is one, according to Boehmer, you probably don’t want to try at home.