The Eat Sheet: Hot New L.A. Restaurant -- Papilles

The Quick Pitch: Restaurateur Santos Uy (Bacaro, Mignon) brings the Parisian “bistronomy” movement -- in which fine-dining cuisine is served in a discordantly modest setting -- to L.A. at this hole-in-the-wall former pizzeria space in a Hollywood strip mall just east of the 101 freeway. Talented upstart Tim Carey, who until late November was still working on the line at Patina for Tony Esnault, oversees the three-course prix fixe meals (entrees include braised beef cheeks with glazed turnips and Idaho ruby trout with red quinoa).

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The Insider’s Dish: Uy, who worked at AOC as a part-time sommelier early in his career and also has a stint at hardcore Eastside grape-geek emporium Silverlake Wine on his resume, runs the restaurant’s pour program.

The Must-Order Item: It’s a set menu, with limited options, but supplements include a torchon of foie gras.

The Best Table: The kitchen of the shoebox-sized space is completely open, and the lighting is brightly fluorescent. So request seats that don’t directly face the rather unflattering illumination.

The Industry Neighbor: Rough House, the hot comedy shingle run by Danny McBride, Jody Hill and David Gordon Green, is within walking distance.

6221 Franklin Ave., L.A., 323.871.2026, papillesla.com

1/9/12 UPDATE: Since this article ran, Papilles replaced its fluorescent kitchen fixtures with three atmosphere-friendly spotlights.