Power of Style: Made to Measure Is Style On Demand
Dior Homme, Tom Ford and Gucci are among the designers offering the new styling option, a cross between old-school tailoring and suits off the rack.
Menswear's major players are of late ramping up on Made to Measure, an option between old-school bespoke tailoring and suits off the rack. MTM offers a client a selection of signature styles, to be produced in the fabric of his choice and with modifications to suit his physique. "Especially in Hollywood, everyone wants things right away," says Hollywood executive style consultant Andrew Weitz, explaining how MTM's existing suit models allow the client to visualize the final result immediately: "If you know you look good in a designer's cut of suiting and want it in a higher button stance, you can adjust that." One sign of MTM's emergence was a fall ad campaign featuring actors Dan Stevens, Matt Bomer and Chinese star Chen Kun for Giorgio Armani, the first to present the service to a broader base. From first consultation to final delivery, MTM shaves a month off the three-month bespoke process with a price that starts at 10 to 20 percent more than off-the-peg and climbs for cashmere and superfine wools. "It's great for the guy who doesn't want to shop. He can call his guy and they have his measurements," says Weitz. "He can say, 'I want to order four more suits' — and boom! They show up at his door."
The French house, which won attention for its streamlined suitings on Channing Tatum and Steven Spielberg, launched its demi-mesure program in 2013, and now offers 200 suit fabrics and more than 160 shirting choices. A single tailor in Paris creates the suit; five to eight weeks later the garment is shipped back for a second fitting, with delivery the next week. At Dior Homme, New York and Beverly Hills; suits start at $4,000, jackets at $3,400, trousers at $830, shirts at $740
With an unrivaled selection of more than 700 fabrics, Zegna creates a computer-generated pattern for all clients, including Idris Elba, Matt Lauer and Carmelo Anthony. Each suit is made of 100 pieces and is hand-cut and -finished, with a personalized inside label. Delivery time can be as little as 28 days. At Zegna stores nationwide; suits start at $3,995, trousers at $895, shirts at $395
For customers like Tom Cruise, Martin Scorsese and Eddie Redmayne, the MTM process involves choosing between Armani's "natural" silhouette or more classically structured models. Fabrics range from pinstripes and herringbone to luxurious vicuna wools. At Giorgio Armani worldwide, including Beverly Hills and New York; suits start at $4,440
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The MTM program includes suits, formalwear, sportswear, leather jackets and the label's fabled footwear. Within the range of four suit models are more than 60 options, including unique silk foulard linings. Three different styles of lace-ups are offered as well as the signature horsebit loafer in 21 colors. Delivery of suits and clothing in six weeks and shoes in 12 weeks. At Gucci flagship stores, including New York, Beverly Hills and South Coast Plaza; suits from $4,000 to $11,000, jackets start at $3,000, trousers at $900, shirts at $500, footwear from $3,000
Aside from suiting, there are very RL extras like alligator luggage and velvet slippers. At a consultation that includes posture analysis, the client can chose from eight jacket styles and six for trousers in 750 luxury fabrics. Suitings are hand-sewn in Italy; completion time after a second fitting is about eight weeks. There are also 12 dress shoe styles as well as customizable cufflinks, signet rings and money clips. At Ralph Lauren stores, including New York and Beverly Hills; suits start at $5,600, shirts at $425, footwear at $1,500 for leather styles
Tom Ford goes big-screen this season with MTM versions of his Daniel Craig styles from Spectre, including suits, overcoats and a spy-worthy white dinner jacket. Around 300 fabrics are available for tailored clothing and another 200 for shirtings. Seven weeks after a second fitting, final alterations are made by the in-store tailor. At all Tom Ford stores, including New York and Beverly Hills; suits start at $4,640, tuxedos at $5,540, shirts at $680, shoes at $3,400.
This story first appeared in the Nov. 13 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.