Pret-a-Reporter

Paris Fashion Week: Roland Mouret References Stevie Nicks for Fall

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Models on the Roland Mouret fall 2016 runway.

A decade after the debut of the bodycon Galaxy dress, the designer's latest collection looked towards the famous rocker for inspiration.

It’s been a decade since his Galaxy dress made its debut, and on Sunday, Roland Mouret continued his reign as the king of the curve.

While Mouret frequently dresses celebrities for the red carpet — recent hits include Daisy Ridley and Lupita Nyong'o for the Star Wars: The Force Awaken premieres — this collection geared away from gowns and focused on a strong silhouette for daywear.

The designer said Stevie Nicks was one of the inspirations behind the collection, but it would be too literal for Mouret to channel the performer's gypsy style; instead, he dove deep into rich merlot velvets and illusions of fabric to create a more modern swirl of fabric.

He also cited Kate Bush as an influence, and models walked to her hit, "Wild Man," inside Paris' palatial Chambre de Commerce. But any wildness was well-contained — save for the sexy signature back zippers that suggested otherwise. Curiously, sleeves weren’t attached, serving more as arm warmers and leaving just a sliver of skin exposed, which could be a unique way to transform a dress from day to night. But the honeycomb pattern used in sleeves, tights and dresses worked best in small bites.

Proving once again that sportswear is seeping into everything, as it did even with couturier Elie Saab’s collection, Mouret showed variations of track jackets. The strongest was a black zip-front over a long white skirt, whose pleats opened to reveal a subtle snakeskin pattern.

It was purposeful. The collection was grounded in black and white, with occasional bursts of bright colors in a long purple dress and Kelly green mini. Asymmetrical button coats and a long velvet cape and suit that came at the end of the show were outwear highlights.

Wrapped up in those swatches of color is everything we'd want.

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