Ryan Reynolds' Stylist Ilaria Urbinati on Men's Jeans: "No Weird Bullshit"
"No whiskers, creative washes, bad stitching or oversize back pockets with crazy logos — just say no," says the power stylist, who also dresses Bradley Cooper and Tom Hiddleston, adding that the "carrot cut" is a trending silhouette among guys.
When it comes to the man-jean scene these days, stylist Ilaria Urbinati says guys are going for "slim over skinny," favoring styles that "aren’t quite as painted-on." Even with wiggle room, though, it’s important to maintain a narrow fit at the hem: "Unlike suit pants, which we usually tailor with half a break to no break, on jeans a little length works as long as they’re quite tapered at the ankle," says Urbinati, whose go-to styles for such clients as Ryan Reynolds, Bradley Cooper, Chris Evans, Tom Hiddleston and Rami Malek include J Brand, Acne and Simon Miller ("for a looser silhouette").
Also trending is the "carrot cut," a style that’s extra slouchy in the crotch and thigh area but narrow at the bottom. "Levi’s is doing a good version that’s only sold at Josh Peskowitz’s new store, Magasin," in Culver City, says the stylist.
With washes, the pendulum has swung the other way: In contrast to a few years ago, when guys lived in raw denim, there’s increased demand for "softer, broken-in jeans" and vintage-style selvedge (Re/Dun’s and Levi’s versions are popular). Comfort remains king. "Every guy I dress — big or small, tall or short — loves J Brand’s Tyler in the Harper wash because it feels like they’re wearing sweatpants," says Urbinati. "They’ll even request them for long flights.”
Bottom line, today’s jean is comfortable yet slim and a little broken in but with "no weird bullshit," she adds: "No whiskers, creative washes, bad stitching or oversize back pockets with crazy logos — just say no."
Brooks skinny trouser in Eiffel Tower; $178 (available this fall), jbrandjeans.com.
Town slim-fit washed denim jean; $280, mrporter.com.
Tailorshop 501 x Magasin jeans; $295, at Magasin, Culver City.
A version of this story first appeared in the May 20 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.