Belongings

Bespoke Hollywood: How 'The Heat's' Paul Feig and Other A-Listers Go Custom

A dinner jacket with 3,800 stitches? Ryan Seacrest's made-to-order tux slippers? The Hollywood Reporter's guide to the ultimate custom men's shirts, suits and shoes.
Paul Feig
Amanda Friedman

SHOES

Individual wooden lasts (molds of feet) are created for bespoke shoe clients. Onto those, the finest leathers and exotic skins like python are hand-sewn, a process that can take a year. For the less patient, made-to-measure also can provide great fit -- even if your feet don't match in size or shape.

G.J. CLEVERLEY

By appointment only at Leather Soul; 479 Rodeo Drive #103, Beverly Hills

"Cleverley shoes are so soft and comfortable it's like putting on a pair of slippers," says Jason Statham, who brought the company's George Glasgow Jr. to the last Vanity Fair Oscar party. "All I've got is Cleverley shoes now." The Beverly Hills-based Glasgow runs G.J. Cleverley with his father, making 4,000 bespoke pairs per year in their U.K. headquarters. The 58-year-old company has shod Humphrey Bogart and Laurence Olivier and now sells to Tom Wolfe and Brett Ratner. From $4,000.

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GEORGE ESQUIVEL

By appointment only; 8309 W. Third St., Los Angeles

After buying two dozen pairs of boots from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominee, Ryan Seacrest graduated to bespoke Esquivel shoes such as the black patent tux slippers he wore to the Emmys in September. Bespoke from $4,000; M2M from $750.

JOHN LOBB BOOTMAKER

South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa

Freestanding John Lobb stores, nearly all owned by Hermes, offer bespoke. From $7,650.

LEATHER SOUL

9513 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills

The store facilitates made-to-measure orders for Saint Crispin's (from $1,700), ready-to-wear for John Lobb and Edward Green, and serves as a showroom for G.J. Cleverley.

THE LEFT SHOE CO.

8473 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood

Using proprietary technology, this company scans clients' feet in its new West Hollywood boutique, then matches each foot to one of more than 100 lasts at its Finland headquarters. Customers select the color, sole, silhouette and other attributes of their made-to-measure dress shoes, boat shoes and desert boots. Joe Manganiello, writer-producer Josh Berman and DreamWorks PR honcho Chip Sullivan are early adopters of the shoes, which begin at $395. The Left Shoe has just initiated "Made to Measure Mondays," after-work drinks at the boutique's sizeable bar, with participation from fellow M2M companies, such as J.Hilburn shirts.

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SUITS

Although suitmakers each have a take on shoulder shape, waist placement and other silhouette elements, the underlying promise is to craft what the client wants. A man and his clothier create the look, referencing swatches, samples, photos and sketches. Savile Row remains the epicenter of bespoke, but today its centuries-old houses -- including Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole & Co, Dege & Skinner and Huntsman -- travel to the West Coast to measure and fit.

On the made-to-measure front, many luxury brands offer the service: Gucci, Prada, Zegna, Ralph Lauren, Brioni, Loro Piana, Kiton and Tom Ford. "Tom Ford is my current fashion hero," says Feig, who has been perfecting two jackets from the house for a year. "Tom likes the '70s cut with the big lapel, even though thin lapels were in when he started doing so. It doesn't look '70s anymore; it just looks like Tom."

JOHNATHAN BEHR

5455 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles

A native Angeleno, Behr nonetheless cleaves to British tailoring traditions: classic silhouettes; 3-inch lapels; high, peaked lapels --and everything handmade on the premises. Behr likes a tasteful mix of plaids, windowpanes, and chalk-stripe fabrics -- all from hallowed Italian and English mills. No surprise that he counts expat Brits among his clients (and even Londoners, who find his prices more palatable than Savile Row norms). In addition to clothing for Fleetwood Mac's Mick Fleetwood, Behr has made bespoke costume suits for Mad Men characters Don Draper and Roger Sterling. "His stuff stands the test of time," says Dateline NBC correspondent Josh Mankiewicz. "I still have the tux he made me back in the '90s, and whenever I wear it people ask me about it. Because it fits, it's classic -- and it looks great." From $2,500.

WARAIRE BOSWELL

834 S. Broadway, Los Angeles

The 6-foot-7 Boswell had to make his own clothing to look good for his William Morris mailroom job in the '90s, then realized his true calling. After more than a decade of sharing a Koreatown tailor's shop, he recently opened his solo showroom in a historic building in downtown L.A. From there he has launched made-to-measure and casual wear, thanks to a partnership with longtime client Chris Bosh (of the NBA's Miami Heat). "When I first came to Bos, about six years ago, I was tired of boxy suits and wanted to grow in my fashion sense," says Tyson Chandler, the New York Knicks center and one of Boswell's many pro-athlete bespoke customers. "He was very good at giving me European and Italian cuts, and we ran from there." Bespoke from $2,500; M2M from $950.

ART LEWIN

112 W. Ninth St., Los Angeles

After buying the client list and web domain of Hollywood's late, great suitmaker Jack Taylor, Chile native Art Lewin expanded his business to four showrooms in the Western U.S. Josh Gad and William Shatner are customers. From $2,495.

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WOODY WILSON

8712 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills

A go-to for costume designers needing a quick turnaround, Woody Wilson has perfected three-week bespoke. But that doesn't mean that patrons Jay Leno, Jimmy Kimmel and Arsenio Hall are always in a hurry. Pick stitching and colorful Bemberg linings are hallmarks of the East Coast native's designs. "Once I started wearing Woody's clothes," says Rob Thomas, director of the upcoming Veronica Mars feature, "I realized that what I wore before didn't really fit. I see old pictures of my dress shirts billowing out of my slacks, and I think, 'Woody wouldn't let that happen.' " From $2,500.

NOVEX

9709 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills

Owner Harold Keleshian trained as a master tailor in Rome before immigrating to the U.S. and setting up this Beverly Hills stalwart. From $2,300.

DISTRICT HOMME

817 S. Los Angeles St. #3N, L.A.

A rare woman on the bespoke scene, Deborah Sabet attracts a young base of actors and musicians new to the idea. Made-to-measure is the bulk of her business. From $1,500.

FITWEL

11755 Wilshire Blvd. #50, Los Angeles; 12437 Ventura Blvd., North Hollywood

A Hong Kong company with two L.A. showrooms and a fleet of U.S. agents sells tens of thousands of suits each year. From $550, though using Zegna or Loro Piana fabric will up the starting price to $1,250.

SEIZE SUR VINGT

8618 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood

In the new West Hollywood boutique, a camera captures a client's fitting (against a grid) so tailors in Europe can match the numbers to the way the person stands and moves. Clients include Jeffrey Katzenberg, Paramount Film Group president Adam Goodman and WME partner Keith Sarkisian. From $2,850.

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MILLER'S OATH

510 Greenwich St., New York

Spearheading the modern made-in-America bespoke movement, the company uses a pickax logo from the Midwestern haberdashery roots of its owner's ancestors. Military details and canvas undercollars are sartorial signatures for this New York City-based house. From $3,850.

DUNCAN QUINN

8234 W. Third St., Los Angeles

Adrian Grenier, Nigel Barker and the members of Green Day look to this former British lawyer for rock-inspired bespoke. From $2,500.

REQUISITE

By appointment only; 140 S. Beverly Drive, Suite 205, Beverly Hills

The Torrance, Calif.-based company visited Savile Row to observe skills to use on suits for Pasht and Mandeville Films and Television co-owner Todd Lieberman. From $3,550.

NEAPOLITAN MADE-TO-MEASURE

Orazio Luciano, Luigi Borelli -- via Shop the Finest, 2234 Purdue Ave., Los Angeles

These Naples bespoke houses offer made-to-measure suits and shirts through Ian Daniels, owner of West L.A.'s Shop the Finest. "A Neapolitan tailor is optimal for Los Angeles clients because the weather is similar," says Daniels, who outfitted Matt Jacobson in an Orazio Luciano wedding suit this year. "There's also a certain kind of freedom and color that Neapolitans embrace."