The Eat Sheet: Hot New Restaurant -- UMAMIcatessen

The Quick Pitch: Adam Fleischman of cult-hit gourmet burger chain Umami debuted a new flagship operation at the southern end of downtown L.A.’s gentrifying Broadway corridor, right next to the Orpheum Theatre. The expanded concept includes a serious mixology bar created by Harvard & Stone’s Adrian Biggs, an extensive charcuterie menu from Chris Cosentino of San Francisco’s Incanto and modernized riffs on deli classics like matzo ball soup and lox-laden bagels conjured by Micah Wexler of Mezze.

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The Insider’s Dish: The dedicated offal counter, called PIGG, is flanked by a two-story-tall glass-walled “ham tower” refrigeration system that holds roughly two dozen different kinds of cured swine (including Johnston Mangalitsa from North Carolina and Jamon Iberico de Bellota from Spain). The showcase tower features a revolving mechanical system for employees to fetch the hams.

The Must-Order Item: A quartet of mini potato knishes, which call to mind gougeres.

The Best Table: One of the spots up against the front windows, for a prime view of the turquoise, Art Deco-styled Eastern Columbia building across the street.

The Industry Neighbor: Below-the-line film and television agency Eastern Talent.

846 S. Broadway, L.A., 213.418.6264, umami.com