Paris Couture Week: How to Get Zuhair Murad's Sheer Starry-Eyed Runway Look
Makeup artist Christelle Coquet also reveals French beauty gurus' biggest secret.
Designer Zuhair Murad had stars in his eyes this season, with a celestial-inspired collection. Even though he’s a red-carpet favorite of Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez and Rihanna, he wasn’t looking to Hollywood, but to the stars in the night sky as his inspiration.
"I have a house up on the mountain and I spend a lot of time at night with a telescope, and I discovered so many beautiful colors," he said. "I thought why not do a collection of the stars, of everything in this beautiful universe with this mysterious and twinkling light."
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Ball gowns appeared in black, midnight blue and deep purples with crystals in delicate constellations across tulle and lace, others in bold bursts on silk velvet to the haunting refrain of David Bowie's "Space Oddity." To contrast with the intensity of the collection, Murad wanted to keep the makeup light and illuminating.
"With these really beautiful dresses full of embroidery and volume, I wanted the makeup to be very pure, and even the hair to be simple, topped with just the tiara with stars to make a contrast without making it too much," said Murad. "I wanted the woman to look fresh and natural."
Makeup artist Christelle Coquet used Chanel’s Fantasme ($36), a soft silver shadow. "It’s very shimmery and very transparent, so it gives just a glow," she said. To create the look she dabbed gently with a finger around the eye and onto the upper cheekbone. "If you use it on the lid and the top of the cheek, it just catches the light."
The shadow’s gel texture works particularly well. "It’s a very wet effect, when you look at it you don’t know if it’s water or exactly what," explained Coquet. "It’s a little bit special."
She skipped liner and instead used two coats of Lancome’s Hypnose mascara ($27.50), which is especially efficient at volumizing because of the shape of the brush, she said. MAC’s Pinch O’ Peach blush ($22) completed the look.
"A lot of mascara and a little of the peachy-pink blush gives it a healthy fairy look," she said.
She also let us in on French makeup artists' biggest secret: Boiron’s Homeoplasmine. "For a nude lip, for any lip, just always moisturize with it," she said. The over-the-counter ointment meant for dry skin is the best base for a perfect pout. No wonder why stars like Gwyneth Paltrow are known to load up their luggage before they head back to L.A.
Backstage photos courtesy of Rhonda Richford