The Costume Designers

Jacqueline Durran, Joanna Johnston, Paco Delgado, Mark Bridges, Colleen Atwood and Julie Weiss posed with their creations.
Jacqueline Durran, Joanna Johnston, Paco Delgado, Mark Bridges, Colleen Atwood and Julie Weiss posed with their creations.
Costume designer Julie Weiss, who started her career in theater, designed the wardrobe for Hitchcock. She often used the color red to convey emotion and tension.
Paco Delgado is the costume designer behind Les Miserables' authentic, romantically distressed costumes. "I started working in theater, doing sets. But I always did the costumes like a side thing, like I didn't pay attention to them, really. I also thought they were like really easy," Delgado confessed.
Joanna Johnston first envisioned a career in fashion. Now, she is the costume designer for Lincoln. In order to bring as much authenticity as possible to the costumes, Johnston did extensive research on the Civil War and even learned Mary Todd Lincoln's favorite color: fuschia.
Mark Bridges started out as a stage actor who made his own costumes. "I can remember doing a sketch at 14 of a costume. It was James Keller in The Miracle Worker. Having been a theater major, I know how actors need to prepare. So that helped me to be a better costume designer," said Bridges, who created the wardrobe for the film The Master.
Before Jacqueline Durran designed Keira Knightley's off-the-shoulder white taffeta gown for Anna Karenina, she was working at a London costume house with a degree in philosophy. "I think it's really terrible when you're watching a film and you can't work out whether it's modern or period," Durran said. "That's something that really distracts me."
"I got pregnant in high school and had a baby," said Colleen Atwood, Snow White and the Huntsman's costume designer, of her modest beginnings. "And so I raised my daughter by working at all kinds of jobs, from factory work to waitressing. When she was out of high school, I went to NYU and took a summer course there in film school, and ended up on the little projects, doing the clothes for some reason, and then starting to kind of be a runner and assistant in the costume world."
Julie Weiss designed this satin pink dress for Hitchcock's Scarlett Johansson, who portrays Janet Leigh. The pink not only telegraphed Leigh's star aura, but also played against Hitchcock's black and wife Alma's red to heighten intensity.
Anna Karenina's costume designer Jacqueline Durran mixed a 1950s' fitted bodice with 1870s' full skirts for Keira Knightley's wardrobe. (Not to mention the $2 million Chanel necklace for one costume.)
This vest, worn by Marius (Eddie Redmayne) in Les Miserables, was fashioned by Paco Delgado from fabric he found at a London flea market. "You start like looking for a fabric that doesn't exist, but it is in your mind. And it's banging you and banging you. It has to be this fabric. And you then one day you suddenly find something, and it might not be the fabric you wanted to find, but you get the illusion that it is the fabric," Delgado said.
Paco Delgado (Les Miserables) on regrets: "We are very fortunate to work in this business. That's what I think every day when I work."
For Amy Adams' 1950s-style costumes for The Master, Mark Bridges drew inspiration from Lucille Ball's maternity gowns from I Love Lucy. "She's dressed like a dutiful wife," he said.
Colleen Atwood was responsible for the sinister Ravenna's (Charlize Theron) costumes in Snow White and the Huntsman. For this particular ensemble, Atwood used turquoise beetle shells found on eBay.
This dress was designed for Sally Field in Lincoln by Joanna Johnston, who used silk taffeta for the dress and accessorized with an antique swan's-down muff and a bonnet with vintage lace.
"We all know each other," Julie Weiss (Hitchcock) said. "We know that if you hear that Joanna (Johnston) got Lincoln, you say, 'Well, great, at least it's going to be done right,' and then you go in your car and you go, 'I don't know how that happened.'"
"[Costume design] is a deep and complicated and long-winded process. And I don't know why it is, because in the '40s, it was more revered as a profession, and everything was constructed," Joanna Johnston (Lincoln) said on the biggest misconception of costume design. "My theory is that everybody gets dressed in the morning, so therefore it's a simple thing to do."
During THR's first-ever Costume Designer Roundtable, it was discovered that none of the six questioned set out to become costume designers. "We came into costume not because we said to Santa, 'I want to be a costume designer,' but because we're there on this quest to keep seeing. All of us here, we're storytellers," Julie Weiss, the designer for Hitchcock, said.
"Charlize's (Theron) first fitting, she was so into it," Colleen Atwood said of her work on Snow White and the Huntsman. "Some of the most amazing actors I've worked with put on their costume and don't even look in the mirror right away. They walk around in it, and they feel the costume."
"I'll say I'm a costume designer, and people will say, 'Oh, that must be so much fun.' And it is fun, but it's really planning and thoughts about so many things," Mark Bridges, designer for The Master, said.