- Share this article on Facebook
- Share this article on Twitter
- Share this article on Email
- Show additional share options
- Share this article on Print
- Share this article on Comment
- Share this article on Whatsapp
- Share this article on Linkedin
- Share this article on Reddit
- Share this article on Pinit
- Share this article on Tumblr
A decade after L.A.’s cocktail revolution took hold (farmers’ market sourcing, custom ice cubes), spreading from faux speakeasies to LAX terminal bars, comes a new round of fresh innovation.
Matthew Biancaniello, who made his name at the Roosevelt Hotel’s Library Bar, has begun operating Mon-Li at Malibu’s Calamigos Guest Ranch and Beach Club (26025 Pacific Coast Highway). It presents a seasonal tasting menu — “I’m using things I forage nearby, like water mint and cactus root,” he says — over 12 liquid courses ($150 per person). Mon-Li inverts the standard dining hierarchy: Food, like a red abalone hand roll, is paired with the cocktails, not vice versa.
Meanwhile, at downtown’s Le Neant (519 S. Spring Street), opening Dec. 1, the bartenders determine what they serve — though it won’t be made with store-bought Campari or Cynar.
“We’re making all of our own amaros, bitters and vermouths,” says bar director Kevin Lee. “We’ll be reliant on the terroir, and as inconsistent as nature is.”
This story first appeared in the Nov. 7 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.
Sign up for THR news straight to your inbox every day