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One of the major influences behind Lady Gaga’s look in House of Gucci was Italian actress and international siren Gina Lollobrigida, who inspired style choices for the character of Patrizia Reggiani Gucci, including a white lace coat, jacket and dress worn at the Lake Como birthday party of Aldo Gucci (played by Al Pacino).
As British costume designer Janty Yates details, “Ridley [Scott] wanted Lady Gaga to look more like Gina Lollobrigida than Joan Collins of Dynasty, so basically we looked at all the photos of Gina in her prime in the ’60s, and I did a later-’70s version of the lace dress.” (To create the outfit, the costume team’s hand cutter Dominic Young individually applied every piece of lace.)
Patrizia’s Italian wedding dress, with its high-low hem and sweetheart neckline, also paid homage to the actress known in her native country as “La Lolla.”
Yates also was able to tap into the personal archive of L.G. (as the costume designer calls Lady Gaga) for inspiration, along with a mix of vintage and period-perfect frocks from Gucci’s archives. And Yates found vintage accessories from venerable jewelry houses Boucheron and Bulgari on eBay.
In all, the Oscar-winning costume designer (Gladiator) created 75 to 100 looks for Patrizia alone, spanning a 20-year time period from 1975 to 1995.
One memorable fashion moment in the film is when Gaga hits the slopes in a crimson-colored black-belted bodysuit, fur hat and Christian Dior sun goggles; the look turned into an internet sensation, with the shades becoming a best-seller on eBay.
And for the scene with Jared Leto (as Paolo Gucci) in which Patrizia utters the line, “Father, Son and House of Gucci,” the actress wore an Yves Saint Laurent pink-and-black polka-dot dress from the Tirelli Archive that — coupled with her big hair and gold collar necklace — makes a big statement. “The polka-dot dress was literally on a rail of vintage costumes that I had located,” says Yates. “L.G. walked in and immediately said, ‘I think I am going to wear this for my meeting with Paolo.’ “
This story first appeared in the Nov. 17 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.
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