This story first appeared in the Feb. 15 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine.
Asian fusion cuisine long ago descended from avant-garde to eye roll. But David Myers, the acclaimed chef/restaurateur behind West Hollywood brasserie Comme Ca, is undaunted.
He’s rebooting the overworked genre at Hinoki & the Bird (10 West Century Drive), which opened Jan. 17. It’s hidden down a long driveway and behind an unmarked door at the rear of the Robert A.M. Stern-designed Century luxury condo building in Century City, conveniently situated near the offices of CAA, ICM and Fox. Lunch service is scheduled to begin in March.
His New Silk Road approach yields dishes like pumpkin toast with miso jam and a reimagining of an East Coast lobster roll on a Japanese charcoal-infused bun melded with Vietnamese green curry. “This is California cuisine to me — the gateway to Asia,” says Myers, who brought in Milo Garcia, responsible for fashioning Gjelina’s interior, to create a space defined by burnished metals and warm woods.
It’s already got fans flocking to secure a perch. “It’s one of those rare restaurants you connect with the moment you enter,” says Episodes co-creator Jeffrey Klarik, who’s started coming with partner David Crane. “The ambiance is warm and sophisticated. The food is a spectacular combination of flavors. It instantly became our favorite place.”