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This story first appeared in the Feb. 15 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine.
Asian fusion cuisine long ago descended from avant-garde to eye roll. But David Myers, the acclaimed chef/restaurateur behind West Hollywood brasserie Comme Ca, is undaunted.
He’s rebooting the overworked genre at Hinoki & the Bird (10 West Century Drive), which opened Jan. 17. It’s hidden down a long driveway and behind an unmarked door at the rear of the Robert A.M. Stern-designed Century luxury condo building in Century City, conveniently situated near the offices of CAA, ICM and Fox. Lunch service is scheduled to begin in March.
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His New Silk Road approach yields dishes like pumpkin toast with miso jam and a reimagining of an East Coast lobster roll on a Japanese charcoal-infused bun melded with Vietnamese green curry. “This is California cuisine to me — the gateway to Asia,” says Myers, who brought in Milo Garcia, responsible for fashioning Gjelina’s interior, to create a space defined by burnished metals and warm woods.
It’s already got fans flocking to secure a perch. “It’s one of those rare restaurants you connect with the moment you enter,” says Episodes co-creator Jeffrey Klarik, who’s started coming with partner David Crane. “The ambiance is warm and sophisticated. The food is a spectacular combination of flavors. It instantly became our favorite place.”
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