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Prabal Gurung has been hot, hot, hot on the New York runway and on red carpets everywhere, thanks to the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker, Zoe Saldana, Amanda Seyfriend and Michelle Obama all wearing his clothes for major photo opps. One of his specialties is abstract prints that are very artful – and the blue and white prints and red and white and pink prints he invoked for spring are a further outgrowth of that; he cited the Indian born/London habitue Anish Kapoor and the Dutch collage artist Amie Dick as major influences. They even influenced his choice of nail colors that the Sally Hansen team cooked up for him: Apparition, a gunmetal tone; Angel Bite, a deep red, and Resurrection, a perfect china sky blue. These colors will be available in the spring – and of course, the models were wearing them during the show with the new collection.
Gurung’s shapes this season – unlike fall, where everything is extremely fitted and body conscious – are floaty and more outright feminine. A lot of the cocktail dresses have slim silhouettes in the bodice, then dropped waists that arch out into almost pouf skirts – many with floaty feathers embellished on them. Others are ruffled 1920s looks – but all the clothes have movement and flutter. And most are embued with these prints – Kapoor is known for geometric sculptures made of pigment and plaster; Dicke is known for her collages of abstract images from fashion magazines. If you do a Google Image search for them and compare them to Gurung’s new pieces, you’ll see the influences very clearly.
“I think this is what the woman who’s drawn to my clothes wants to wear next,” the designer told THR backstage. “This is where she’s going. Sure, she’s a tough woman – but now, the toughness is on the inside, and the softness on the outside. With the women I create for, it’s always changing, always evolving. They don’t need to prove anything to anyone. They dress for themselves.”
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