Rolex’s Emoji Watch, Oris’ Kermit and a $20M Diamond Timepiece: The Most Talked-About Debuts at Geneva’s Watches and Wonders Show

From a dial that takes its cue from an iconic Muppets character to perhaps the priciest, most blinged-out timepiece ever created, the annual Watches and Wonders trade fair and the surrounding events known as Geneva Watch Week showcased an impressive range of status-watch launches for 2023 at the event, which ran from March 27 to April 2 in Switzerland.

Luxury watches are roundly agreed to be among the product categories that largely remained bulletproof throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, an idea that was supported by robust attendance and a decidedly optimistic approach with product debuts that design-wise often veered into audacious territories. That gung-ho attitude also is driving price points, as exceedingly few watches were discussed in the $5,000 and under retail range. As for the top end, that’s undeniably hit a stratospheric level, as one of the pieces featured there amply demonstrates.

A selection of celebrities drew crowds in the stands, from Roger Federer at Rolex (wearing the brand’s coveted and hard-to-get Air-King) to Julia Roberts at Chopard — as well as actor/singer Lay Zhang at Hublot and Taiwanese actor/singer Edward Chen (Your Name Engraved Herein) at Piaget, both a nod to Asia’s post-pandemic attendance return. But the spotlight this year unquestionably focused on status watches, amid an industry with only one complaint: They can’t keep up with the ever-growing demand for high-end timepieces.

Here’s a look at 10 watches, dubbed either men’s or unisex designs, that were widely discussed among editors and collectors alike throughout the week.

Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition

That is indeed Kermit the Frog in the date window of the latest timepiece by Oris, the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, a collaboration between Disney and the watch brand known to often focus on nature and environmental themes. On the dial inspired by Kermit’s distinctive green hue, he appears in the date window on the first of each month and is a reminder, according to Oris execs, to not take life too seriously. Both the bracelet and 39mm case housing the automatic movement are crafted of titanium. $4,600; at oris.ch

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

With its potential in science and technical applications due to its anti-magnetic properties and shock protection, IWC’s Ingenieur was a game-changer when it debuted in 1954 — and even more so when it was reinterpreted by watchmaking pioneer Gerald Genta in the 1970s. The watch brand is now revisiting that latter moment with an updated Ingenieur (French for “engineer”), which features signature Genta elements, from its integrated bracelet design in stainless steel to the screws on the round textured bezel. This piece also feels decidedly more compact than previous iterations, while the Aqua edition seen here also highlights a patterned dial in deep turquoise, a color family that was prominent throughout the week. $11,700; at iwc.com

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 Emoji Puzzle Watch

Kermit wasn’t the only whimsical motif introduced in Geneva: Rolex surprised attendees by introducing dial designs that felt undeniably more joyful and exuberant than collectors typically anticipate from this status brand. The bright new Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” dial is splashed with multicolored bubbles, all highlighting the colors of lacquered dials introduced in 2020, and is available in 31mm, 36mm and 41mm sizes, while the Day-Date 36 seen here showcases a colorful jigsaw-puzzle motif and substitutes emotions for the days of the week seen in the aperture at 12 o’clock. Rather than numbers, a total of 31 emojis — including a four-leaf clover, a peace sign, a Rolex coronet or the heart shown here — are seen in the date window at 3 o’clock, surrounded by indices in multicolored baguette-cut sapphires. Available in two base dial colors — turquoise, available on the white-gold and yellow-gold versions, and an orange used for Everose, Rolex’s proprietary pink gold — this Day-Date 36 was among a variety of releases in this model and size highlighting dials in beautiful hues, but it’s a sure bet the Emoji Puzzle is the design that will quickly be scooped up by collectors, if only because it’s the unicorn of the group in every way. Price upon request; at rolex.com

Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva

Montblanc is celebrating the 100th anniversary of its Calibre 13.20 movement this year, and among its tribute pieces, the Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Edition offers a chronograph unlike any other. Forget about pushers; the wearer activates this chronograph via the bezel. One click starts the chronograph function, the second stops it and the third resets it. The result is not only a function the wearer is sure to both enjoy and show off, it also creates a cleaner look overall for the fluted bezel in white gold and 42.5mm stainless-steel case, with only the crown in its typical position. Fold in the blue dial with white luminescent numbers and hands and blue alligator case, and this is a handsome piece that’s more complex than its look might suggest. The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva is limited to 100 pieces, another nod to the movement’s centennial. $40,500; at montblanc.com

F.P. Journe Calibre 1300.3

In 2012, the famed watchmaker François-Paul Journe had dinner with Francis Ford Coppola at the iconic director’s Napa Valley home, a night that inspired a discussion about whether a watch had ever been invented that represented the way Babylonians and other ancient civilizations used their hands to count the 12 hours of the day or evening. Fast-forward nine years, when the F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola debuted at the 2021 Only Watch auction, featuring an automaton hand based on the prosthetic hand invented in the 16th century by Ambroise Paré, the father of modern surgery. That one-of-a-kind piece ultimately sold for $4.5 million, and now the production model has made its debut. The piece is now dubbed the FFC Calibre 1300.3 — though, from its titanium hand with animated fingers to display digital hours and the rotating minutes dial to its 42mm platinum case, there’s no denying this piece feels anything but “production.” Price upon request; at fpjourne.com

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

TAG Heuer is commemorating one of its signature designs in 2023, the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, Jack Heuer’s horological tribute to all he loved about racing and mid-century modern design. Among the year’s high-profile tributes is the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, which honors the original’s design codes. The orange gradient ring on the vivid blue dial is meant to evoke the look of a speedometer, with features that include a chronograph function, date and subdials for quarter seconds, 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter. The 42mm brushed-steel case is positioned on a blue leather band. Ryan Gosling is a brand ambassador for TAG Heuer and wore a Carrera in The Gray Man. $5,750; at tagheuer.com

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar

There’s a lot to love about this first-ever calendar in Panerai’s Radiomir series, from its easy readability, with months rotating around the dial — the current month is positioned next to the day and date at 3 o’clock — to its beautiful sun-brushed dial in deep Bordeaux, all in a gleaming 45mm platinum case in Panerai’s signature cushion shape. The Radiomir Annual Calendar Platinumtech Experience was one among several debuts from this popular Panerai Collection — the steel Radiomir Otto Giorni (or “Eight Days”), inspired by a 1936 design, also was a highlight — but the polish of this platinum Radiomir is too irresistible. $88,100; at panerai.com

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

Some watch brands highlighted a dozen or more new models, while others highlighted less than 10 or just two or three. At Ulysse Nardin, the conversation for 2023 was rooted in a single timepiece, the Freak One. The brand has been presenting a succession of avant-garde Freak designs since 2001, all so named precisely because they don’t look like any traditional watch in the marketplace. But the fanfare surrounding the Freak One indicates that this model is the culmination of all the design innovation that preceded it and then some. As the brand proudly points out, this is a timepiece with no dial, no hands and no crown; instead, its flying carousel movement rotates on its own axis, while its signature silicon escapement remains omnipresent for precision with durability. In its 44mm titanium case with rose-gold bezel, the Freak One’s look, meanwhile, straddles that longed-for duality of elegant and forward-thinking with ease. Price upon request; at ulysse-nardin.com

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G

For Patek Philippe devotees, a Pilot watch that features both a flyback chronograph and dual time zones is sure to vault quickly to the top of wish lists. That the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G accomplishes these functions on a stylish dial that honors the best of the brand’s vintage sensibilities is a lovely bonus. With functions including a central chronograph hand, date and 60-minute subdials, and local and home day/night indicators, the self-winding mechanical movement is housed in a 42mm white-gold case, while the sunburst blue-gray dial highlights gold-applied numerals with luminescent coating. $75,700; at patek.com

Jacob & Co. Billionaire Timeless Treasure

In the world of timepiece superlatives, Jacob & Co. has created perhaps the ultimate wow in both sparkle and price. The Jacob & Co. Billionaire Timeless Treasure lives up to its name, starting with that “& Co.,” as veritable teams were required to source and craft this watch: 10 people to search, sort and cut the yellow diamonds needed — 880 rough carats became 425 Asscher-cut diamonds totaling 216.89 carats — while 15 additional artisans were enlisted to craft the lattice-like structure of 18-karat yellow gold, set the stones and encase the skeleton movement, which is embellished with 57 baguette-cut diamonds, framed by tsavorites. The process took three and a half years, but anyone in Geneva who viewed this latest in the dizzying Billionaire series was dazzled by it. The price? A cool $20 million; at jacobandco.com