Alexandre Vauthier Shows "Super Parisian" Couture Collection
He tells THR he "wanted to explore what it means to be Parisian and chic."
Alexandre Vauthier went full-on Parisian glam for his fall 2018 Couture collection. And it was welcome. The designer told The Hollywood Reporter he wanted to explore what it means to be Parisian and chic. “I think it’s my life, Paris and the women; it’s a super Parisian collection where I tried to mix all the codes.” He further defined those to include pleats, lace, tiger prints, black and white combos, French boater hats, gold, crystal jewels, beads, quills. There is everything.”
To be exact, these were specific codes from the 1980’s Parisian life — a decade much like the 70’s that provides endless fodder for collections. The designer had a first-hand glimpse growing up. “My grandmother wore couture from Chanel and Saint Laurent, but my mother was more designer, wearing Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier and Maribetta. Personally, I was fascinated by Jean Paul and Mugler and had the chance to work with them, and Karl for me will always be a fantasy.”
The latter two were most evident in this collection though Saint Laurent and Ungaro also came to mind. Most of the collection was built around a commanding structured jacket with typical '80s Mugler exaggerated shoulders (which originally came from the '40s). These came in varied lengths from bolero to hip to miniskirt and full length as a gown — especially fetching in off-white satin floor length jacket gown. Most were belted with wide belts in black or gold recalling that code.
Russian-style knicker pants — some created by tucking full pants into knee-high boots or worn with a white shirt, bolero ties and cape hit the decade of excess era on the nail. Tiger print gowns, one a long sleeve column and the other a cutaway leg-sweeping flounce bustier style — required over 1,400 hours of hand-beading. It also inspired the model wearing it to do an old-school gown train flip circa 1980s runways when she reached the photo pit. The other piece de resistance was a completely plumed black feather minidress that looked like a ball of exploding quills. One-shoulder gowns with big exaggerated shoulder bows, bustier and tiered ruffle minidresses, and sweeping pleated gowns completed the trip down memory lane that was a classier street on this outing.
Vauthier is dearly beloved, especially by the ladies who adore those super-short puffy-sleeve a la Saint Laurent minidresses — there’s a lot of that going on in this town — including Julia Restoin-Roitfeld sitting front row, and Rihanna, Kendall Jenner and Eva Green, all of whom have worn the brand on the red carpet.
Also on site for Tuesday's show was Christian Louboutin, who has collaborated with Vauthier in that past but was there as a friend. Louboutin had his own celebrating to do, also unveiling his first Couture shoe collection.
He tells THR, “I have a couture atelier for years that is a true hidden gem in Paris, and often the first shoe is coming from them and then I change — it becomes a collection. I wanted to show the first gems of the next collection this time.” Looks like Vauthier followed suit.