Paris Fashion Week: Andrew Gn Compares Fast Fashion to Fried Chicken
The designer argues that luxury takes a bit more time than fast fashion's assembly-line style production.
Andrew Gn has become an under-the-radar red-carpet staple — most recently on Emily Ratajowski at the Costume Designers Guild Awards and Calista Flockhart at the Golden Globes — and on Friday he showed a strong collection inspired by Czar Nicholas of Russia’s daughters and their regalia during Paris Fashion Week that will surely show at some soon-to-be premiere.
But any eager buyers will have to wait until next winter.
The French Fashion Federation recently voted against “see now, buy now” collections just ahead of Paris Fashion Week.
“With all the other French houses, we felt we’re not really into ‘see now, buy now’ because we feel that creativity takes time. And also for such a luxurious product we cannot mass produce way in advance. We are not producing cookies or scones or fried chicken!” Gn told Pret-a-Reporter. “Some of the evening gowns are available only one in each city. How could I produce 30 gowns and try to say 'buy it now'? It just doesn’t work that way.”
For this collection, Gn used Edwardian embroidery and resurrected old-fashioned braiding and sewing techniques for the collection of military-inspired coats and capes, which even trickled down to more contemporary minis that were still rendered luxurious in heavy gold and back brocade that recall a common Gn color scheme.
And though he showed a bit of a sportswear bent for the first time, with sweaters and sweatshirts displayed alongside his exquisitely cut capes and gowns, even the pared-down product is still hand-sewn or embroidered.
BRAIDED BABES: Models at Andrew Gn's fall 2016 presentation. (Photos: Getty Images)
Both the French and Italian federations are against the idea “because we’re in the same boat,” Gn said, though he conceded it could be a good idea for American brands that show in New York.
“Many of those are less expensive labels, more contemporary and that can work for them as a way to compete with fast fashion brands,” he said. “But we’re slow fashion. We’re working in luxe, and luxury cannot be copied.”