Derm-to-the-Stars Harold Lancer Says Big Butts Are Out, Lifted Nose Tips Are In

Courtesy of Subject
Celebrity dermatologist Dr. Harold Lancer in Beverly Hills.

With Beyonce, Margot Robbie, Michelle Williams, Kim Kardashian West and Jennifer Lopez as clients, Lancer dishes on the latest cosmetic surgery trends in Hollywood.

“I’m the only remaining dermatologist on earth,” boasts Dr. Harold Lancer, referring to the overload of nurses and physicians assistants relying solely on cosmetic procedures instead. Cocky, maybe, but Lancer has cred, given his long list of A-list clients, including Beyonce, Margot Robbie, Michelle Williams, Kim Kardashian West, Jennifer Lopez, Allison Janney and Ryan Seacrest, who co-founded his men’s skin-care line Polished by Dr. Lancer in 2017.

Sitting down in his Beverly Hills office, the derm-to-the-stars gave THR a fast update on the most popular Hollywood procedures and products.

Most-wanted: Mini-lipo, babytox

Ninety percent of cosmetic procedures are minimally invasive — getting more subtle, repetitive procedures as opposed to looking "done." Botox is still number one in terms of cosmetic procedures, but it’s about mini Babytox dosages, not the stunned mannequin look. Liposuction is the number one cosmetic procedure, but it’s more about mini liposculpting, like Kybella injections (that destroy fat cells under the chin). Liposculpting for six-pack abs, mainstream A-list actors don’t do that. They exercise!

Big butts are out, lifted nose tips in

The fad of gigantic butt augmentation is on its way out; people wanting distortion of their rear end is in its last death throes. Bringing up the tip of the nose with a drop of Botox at the base has been popular for the last couple years, so you don’t have that 35-year-old-plus downturned curve. Filler in the earlobes is popular to combat shrunken, flappy lobes, so you can wear earrings without having them hang on the floor. And a little bit of filler at the angles of the mouth, not for the crease lines, but to bring up a happy smile. 

The new red-carpet worry is cleavage lines

For firming the jaw and neck and getting rid of tree trunk lines, radiofrequency micro-needling has taken over. The newest machine is Cutera’s Secret-RF, which is faster and more precise and it’s not even in distribution yet. The latest usage in the last few months is from the collarbone to the top of the nipples. If you firm this skin of the decolletage, it will bring up the nipple projection about two to three millimeters, which may not sound like much, but it’s a lot. It’s a fashion thing. There’s all this taping of the cleavage line on red- carpet gowns that are cut down to the belly button, so you want to get rid of any lines in the cleavage area. It makes the nipples a little perkier, so the double-edged tape works better. And it’s not only requested by Hollywood clientele; lots of younger clients wear open necklines to the verge of craziness. 

The new secret weapon: micro-threads

For the past few years, we’ve used dissolvable Silhouette Instalift threads to nonsurgically lift sagging skin on the jawline, inner arms, elbow and knees and to diminish tree trunk lines in the neck and cellulite dents. In the last few weeks, they’ve released smaller threads. With the bare-butt look in fashion, you don’t want dents. Surgical removal has a very high failure rate, so we put in some of these micro-threads and hatch-weave them underneath to bring up the dents. It’s a volumizing agent in the form of a micro-thread that is injected with a micro-needle. You might use 50 threads for a jawline treatment. It lasts three to six months and collagen and elastic tissue form around the threads for longer-term improvement. The cost is $2,500 up to $5,000 once or twice a year, as opposed to a $25,000 to $250,000 face-lift.

Guys are in the game  

Five years ago, men were one in 20 patients getting cosmetic surgery; now it’s more like one in eight. And all age groups, by the way. An hour ago, I saw a guy who’s in his late 60s; his 60-year-old wife is taking better care of herself, so there’s pressure on him to not look so old. Botox is becoming more popular with men, but really under the radar. If a woman gets 10 units of Botox, a man will get two units just to get rid of the central frown line. Some men get a little bit of filler in the cheek margin, not the apple of the cheek like women do, to create a bit of definition so the cheek hollow looks more prominent and masculine. And men love radiofrequency treatments for sharper demarcation of the jawline. Men are using skin care now, but they don't multitask, so I developed the line with Ryan Seacrest. Plans are in the works to add more products to the line.

The sky's the limit for eye cream

Last year, we launched the ultra-luxury Lancer Legacy line with an ultimate $1,000 Youth Treatment. On July 5, we are adding a $450 high-performance Eye Treatment Duo that includes a.m. and p.m. formulations with roller-ball applicators, because early signs of aging often first appear in the eye area. When you have that dark-circle "I feel old" look walking in the door, we always recommend reconditioning the skin first. You need to restore the hydration of the upper and lower eyelid over a two- to eight-week period of time to more precisely evaluate whether there’s a volume loss that needs a filler. If it’s taut, that dark hollow look often goes away.