Cannes Culinary Showdown: Judging the Best Artisanal Croissants in Town
In Cannes, the crescent-shaped pastry is everywhere, yet there are surprisingly few independent boulangeries.
This story first appeared in The Hollywood Reporter's Cannes Daily on May 18.
Although Austria invented the croissant as early as the 13th century, France won the war of perception, as the relatively recent import -- it took root, by many accounts, at Paris’ Boulangerie Viennoiserie in 1839 -- is considered the nation’s culinary gift to the world.
In Cannes, the crescent-shaped pastry is everywhere, yet there are surprisingly few independent boulangeries in town producing their own. THR checked out two of them, zeroing in on their output of the croissant’s sweeter cuboid cousin, the pain au chocolat.
Yes, the pastries at 12 rue du Marechal Foch are supposed to be buttery. It’s inherent to their nature, and a large part of their joy. But this is too much of that guilty thing. Downright obscene, actually -- and enough to make you feel it through your pores after devouring just one. Not helping is the chocolate, which is both too milky and too mushy: more the ideal material of cream puﬀ ﬁllings, not pain au chocolat. Price: €1.10
Here we go: still plenty buttery, and ﬂaky, but not too much. There’s an alluringly tawny coloring to the exterior of the output at 1 rue Chaubaud. And the chocolate -- laid down double-barreled, for better total coverage in every bite -- the boulangerie has chosen is notably more bitter, catalyzing that gratifying PB&J-style contrast with the yeast-leavened dough. This is the way a pain au chocolat should be done. Price: €1