Ermenegildo Zegna Pushing Earth Tones for Evening With New Men's Red Carpet Collection

Courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna
Alessandro Sartori showed his second XXX Red Carpet Collection in L.A. this week

The awards show designer dressing derby is on.

Awards season officially kicked off this week with the announcement of the Golden Globes and Grammys nominations, which means fashion and jewelry brand reps are flocking to L.A. to host events and take meetings, in the hopes of courting stylists and securing red carpet placements.

Zegna Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori came in from Italy to host a cocktail party to showcase some looks from his second XXX Red Carpet collection, a capsule couture line designed with Hollywood awards season in mind.

Adding to classic gray-black, black-blue and off-white dinner jackets in Sartori's signature 1 1/2 breasted (as opposed to double-breasted) silhouette, which can be worn with turtlenecks or band-collar shirts for newness, the collection builds on last year's sportier evening wear offerings.

There's a black velvet bomber jacket and joggers, plus a new take on the evening sneaker that's more akin to an urban hiker boot with corduroy, shearling and leather details.

The big news, though, is that Sartori is going all in on earth tones for evening. Think burgundy, tobacco and a falling leaves jacquard he says feels warm and fresh.

“This collection is very linked to what we do for the stores and the runway show but exclusive to L.A.,” explains Sartori, acknowledging that in his time in the business, he has noticed there are two categories of menswear customers: "one looking for very wow, crazy looks, and one who wants more subtle innovation rather than color or styling."

By way of explaining which side he comes down on, Sartori thinks the days of men in bubblegum pink coats and crazy capes on the red carpet may be coming to an end. "We are linking the red carpet to the real world," he says of the XXX Red Carpet collection. "It becomes about an exercise in noticing the details."