Florence Pugh’s Stylist Breaks Down Her "Maximalist," "Magpie" Oscars Gown and Gems by Louis Vuitton

Florence Pugh attends the 92nd Annual Academy Awards - Getty - H 2020
Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic

“She’s a magpie and really loves jewelry and accessories, so she was thrilled to wear a few pieces of high jewelry,” says Rebecca Corbin-Murray of the 'Little Women' nominee.

Florence Pugh enjoyed a Cinderella moment Sunday night while attending her first Academy Awards, but Joan of Arc provided a bit of style inspiration as well.

The Little Women co-star was dressed by Louis Vuitton, a look that started with a custom gown designed by house creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere and inspired by the ruffled skirts in his spring 2020 ready-to-wear collection. “It was really a collaboration between Florence and Nicolas,” says stylist Rebecca Corbin-Murray, who has worked with the actress for two years. “They had a lovely afternoon together, had tea and went over sketches. He worked with what she envisioned for the red carpet and his own aesthetic. This was Florence’s first Oscars, so to be able to sit down and discuss a custom opportunity felt really special.” 

Pugh's look also pulled off one of the night’s most playful color combinations, with her green silk-satin dress offset by high-jewelry pieces, also by Louis Vuitton, that showcased the deep-pink hues of imperial topaz. The pendant necklace and pair of solitaire rings, from a grouping dubbed “Goutte de Sang,” or “Drop of Blood,” are from the label’s 2019 Riders of the Knights collection, which takes its cue from female warriors. The necklace is crafted using roughly 260 diamonds in various cuts, with a pendant featuring a 21-carat pear-shaped imperial topaz, all set in 18-karat white gold, while the rings likewise showcase pear-shaped stones of imperial topaz, surrounded by diamonds. 

“‘Goutte de Sang’ is inspired by the bravery of Jeanne d’Arc,” Francesca Amfitheatrof, artistic director of watches and jewelry for Louis Vuitton, tells The Hollywood Reporter. “She is represented here by her sword, made from custom-cut diamonds that wrap silkily around the neck and are held in place by a three-carat pear-shaped diamond. At the opposite end, the sword tip falls dramatically. An LV flower-cut diamond and an extraordinary 21-carat pear-shaped imperial topaz hang from the tip, as if frozen in time. The color of this stone is not typical red, but instead has a touch of deep pink to represent Jeanne d’Arc, a woman who led men to victory and who never once used her sword.” 

The juxtaposition of colors in the jewels and the dress was wholly intentional, Corbin-Murray says. “When I went in to view all the high jewelry, these pieces really jumped out,” she explains. “Knowing the color of the dress, I thought it would be interesting to do something that was completely opposite and almost clashed a bit. That felt more modern than to do something more expected in jewelry, such as green or blue stones. And Florence is a young actress who takes a very forward, directional approach in her fashion, so this felt really modern and fresh.”

How does Pugh apply jewelry to her personal style? “Oh, she’s a maximalist, no question,” Corbin-Murray says with a laugh. “She’s a magpie and really loves jewelry and accessories, so she was thrilled to wear a few pieces of high jewelry. Florence always loves a twist, and it’s fun to work with someone who embraces a more non-traditional approach to glamour. These colors together created a moment that was beautiful, but also felt really rich.”