
Raf Simons Jil Sander show - P 2011
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Who will take over the reins of designing Christian Dior ready to wear and couture has been the biggest question in the fashion world for years, since John Galliano stepped down over a scandal involving racist and hateful remarks he made while in the Parisian bar The Pearl in the Marais section of Paris.
On Dec. 13, Women’s Wear Daily is reporting that LVMH, the parent company of Dior — one of the most famous labels in the European constellation — is in talks with Raf Simons of Jil Sander.
Who is Simons? The reason you don’t know is that he is the quietest and most understated of designers — in terms of press. His designs for Jil Sander have been amazing, though; Tilda Swinton is his biggest proponent and wears the label constantly. The sensibility has been a combo of understated almost military inspired chic with one foot in the avant garde. Simons singlehandedly brought back the wearing of long skirts for day — and he reinvented evening separates. The lines and cuts of his clothes are precise and couture like, which makes him a good candidate for Dior.
Interestingly, though, the Dior job has not been an easy one to fill. Marc Jacobs was the top name, and he already designs Louis Vuitton for LVMH (which also owns Dior) and has a great relationship with the French brand giant. But apparently Jacobs demanded that he bring his entire team over from Louis Vuitton and perhaps from his own Marc Jacobs brand — and Dior did not want to let go couturiers who’ve been with the brand for many decades. Alber Elbaz of Lanvin turned down the job, as he’s very happy with the oldest couture house in the world. Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy almost turned down the job — and it was starting to look there were no design stars who would take the job. The talent and reputation of Galliano, a true master, would be intimidating to any designer, who would not want to compare to him. The only other designer of that legacy would be the late great Alexander McQueen, who would have been a natural for Dior.
If Simons does take over Dior as we expect, will Swinton be his first celebrity client? That would be our expectation. You heard it hear first!
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