After a few seasons of frenzy, perhaps Karl Lagerfeld peaked with his Chanel supermarket and its bevy of branded goods. For Haute Couture he shared a more sparing aesthetic. The show was constructed around an eco-conscious, recyclable “green” design with a modern minimalist machiya-inspired building at the center. Or perhaps it was his way to give the audience a chance to focus on the clothes instead of the surrounding mise en scene. Either way, it certainly made every guest green with envy.
Baptiste Giabiconi opened the show entering silently from the side, with a start so subdued few audience members even had their iPhones at the ready. With an Instagram moment missed, Karl Lagerfeld’s male muse arrived center stage in patchwork pants and a tweed jacket to open the door to the runway.
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Lindsey Wixson, Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner seemed to gracefully glide across the bright green grass to a soundtrack that wandered through subtle remixes of Siouxsie and the Banshees’ “Hong Kong Garden,” Alain Chamfort’s “Manureva” and the Eurythmics‘ “Take Me to Your Heart.”
The collection, anchored by slim, calf-length skirts, rounded football shoulders and cork platform heels, was in sparkling neutrals of cream, beige, and pale pink. Models sported exaggerated Egyptian double cat eyes and low geisha-inspired croissant chignons. With discreet waist pouches, there was nary a logo handbag in sight.
CHANEL CATWALKERS: Gigi Hadid, left, Bella Hadid and Lindsay Wixson on the runway in Paris. (Photos: Getty Images)
The reigning royalty of French cinema sat front row — Melanie Laurent, Gaspard Ulliel and Celine Sallette — while Monica Belluci made a last minute entrance.
Chanel is the only must-see for the Bond woman this season. “When I think of Paris I think of the Eiffel Tower, the Mona Lisa – and Chanel,” she told Pret-a-Reporter.
Ulliel, fresh from filming wunderkind Xavier Dolan’s It’s Only the End of the World, with Marion Cotillard and Vincent Cassel, says the film should be ready in time for Cannes. Dolan won the jury prize there two years ago.
The actor, who is also the face of Bleu de Chanel fragrance, also made his one-and-only appearance this season. “It’s wonderful to see a faithful and long collaboration with a house like Chanel. He’s been there forever but keeps reinventing himself every year. He’s a genius.”
Diane Kruger and Gwyneth Paltrow had hit the earlier show — perhaps to pick out gowns for upcoming red carpets. Hadid’s gold column dress and cape would perfect for any gold statue ceremony.
As the finale bride finished her walk, all the panels on the Japanese-inspired abode opened to reveal the models of Uncle Karl’s dollhouse shimmering in the light as he took a bow.
KARL’S KREW: The designer’s muses. (Photo: Getty Images)