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What would you get if you married ‘80s punk with ‘90s goth, added in some ‘90s grunge and then threw in a little Victoriana of the late 1800s? That would be Marc Jacobs’ baby: a stellar multi-layer collection that featured all those elements — impossible for anyone to mash up miraculously but Marc. All that, and Lady Gaga modeling to boot. Speaking of boots, those lace-up Victorian mega-platforms (at least six inches off the ground) were meant for Gaga walking, that’s for sure. Even though she was overheard backstage saying, “I wish Marc had made the shoes taller.”
Jacobs had the best celebrity count of all of New York Fashion Week — on or off the runway — at the Park Avenue Armory on Thursday night. Front-row royalty included Natasha Lyonne, Juliette Lewis, Christina Ricci, Kiernan Shipka (conspicuously absent from the Delpozo show the day before), Maggie Gyllenhaal, artist Rachel Feinstein, Sandra Bernhard, Debi Mazar and Emily Ratajkowski.
MARC’S MUSES: Frm left, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Debi Mazur, Emily Ratajkowski and Juliette Lewis at the Marc Jacobs fall 2016 show. (Photos: Getty Images)
But how did Gaga even get on the runway — modeling look 20, in a grey oversized coat with teal green fur puff sleeves and a pussy bow blouse, and requisite Francois Nars black-out eye makeup and black lip lacquer? As she was prepping her David Bowie blowout performance at Monday night’s Grammys, Jacobs — who made her Grammy red-carpet gown — called and asked if she’d walk his show. Gaga didn’t even hesitate. She had to fly back on Tuesday anyway to attend stylist Brandon Maxwell’s New York show. She was even listed on the Marc Jacobs program by her real name — Stefani Germanotta — which a few in the crowd didn’t recognize, though a tip went out about half an hour before that she was seen backstage in the makeup chair. And what a trooper — she had less ego than the would-be super models. Right before the show, Gaga told a reporter, “My whole goal is to be here for Marc, making his vision come to life. It’s not about me, it’s about the clothes.”
MARC’S MODEL: Lady Gaga on Marc Jacobs’ fall 2016 runway. (Photo: Getty Images)
And we can sure see her wearing these clothes, certainly the boots, but also the oversized full-length teal cape with black embroidery, the black illusion evening gowns, the avocado-colored fur, floor-length Victorian coats, the high-waisted black and white graphic baby-doll dress, and many of the very full skirts with tight little buttoned-up jackets and pussy bow blouses.
There were a lot of fabrications going on at once: feathers, crystals, lamé, lace and wool. And as for the rest of the Hollywood contingent, there was a noticeable number of red-carpet gowns — often absent from other Marc Jacobs collections. But then again, busting out after leaving Louis Vuitton, he’s finally put his own name on red-carpet eveningwear. Gyllenhaal, Rachel Weisz, Kerry Washington, Cher, Cate Blanchett and so many other actresses have worn him in the last year.
And it looks like 2016 could see even more: This collection had many gowns — slithery and sexy, and ballgown skirts and full-on gowns — all in dark hues with a hint of silver or pattern. One silver gown was light and bright, and floated on the body, but sent a beam of light into the audience, seated in the round on bleachers. That baby could turn up anywhere next week (let’s look for it at the Vanity Fair Oscar party, shall we?). It’s almost too cool for the Oscars.
And Jacobs himself put his money where his heart is in his own runway bow look: He embroidered a Hillary Clinton T-shirt with her picture on it with sequins, leaving no secret about his true favorite woman of the hour. Perhaps the presidential hopeful will return the compliment and wear something of his soon. Though likely without the sequins.
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