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Though Osvaldo “Ozzy” Salvatierra has used makeup to let the natural beauty of actresses such as Emma Watson and Mindy Kaling shine through, it’s his eye for the subversive that has made him a go-to for boundary-pushing musicians like Lykke Li, Courtney Love and, most recently, Rihanna.
While walking Billboard through the two looks created here, the Los Angeles-based artist dished on red-carpet tips and working with RiRi.
Billboard: What was working with Rihanna like for “Bitch Better Have My Money?”
We shot it over four days, and the whole experience felt like a movie set instead of a music video. Rihanna has such a good eye, she is always willing to try things and listen to suggestions.
How does doing makeup for a video compare with the red carpet?
The lighting is different, which you always have to consider. With videos, it’s like 10 HMI light stands on your face, so you need to bring color or you just look dead. On a red carpet, it’s just camera flashes.
What makeup should people generally avoid on the carpet?
Lip gloss. The last thing you want is to have hair stuck to your lips.
AALIYAH MEETS RIHANNA
THE MAKEUP INSPIRATION: Aaliyah’s 1998 “Are You That Somebody” and Rihanna’s 2015 “Bitch Better Have My Money,” for which Salvatierra did the makeup. “It’s hard and girly, for the woman that’s quite strong,” he says of the dark-lip look.
1. Massage Egyptian Magic moisturizer into the skin and onto eyelids and lips. “This is what’s going to give you the glow,” says Salvatierra, who used the product on Rihanna for her “Bitch Better Have My Money” video. $39; egyptianmagic.com.
2. Before the moisturizer sets, work liquid foundation (like CoverGirl Queen Collection in Rich Sand) into skin, avoiding eyelids. $8; covergirl.com.
3. Brush Cle de Peau Beaute concealer underneath eyes to cover dark circles. Using small strokes, brush concealer along and just below the brow bone. “It looks like I used shadow, but I’ve just played with the lid’s naturally darker color. Any more product than this, even mascara, and the look starts to get gothy.” $70; saksfifthavenue.com.
4 Fill the lips with Tarte Skinny SmolderEyes waterproof liner (yes, eyeliner!) in Onyx. Then use a brush to subtly apply the product to brows. “A lip this dark instantly evokes confidence. Blondes can achieve the same effect with a dark brown; redheads can use a deep red. Plus, liner stays put for the entire night.” $19; tartecosmetics.com.
DIANA ROSS MEETS BEYONCE
“This is the ‘we came to have fun’ one,” says Salvatierra, whose look references two of music’s most glamorous muses.
1. Apply Makeup Forever glitters in 3, 12 and 15 onto lids with lash glue. “It catches the light beautifully and makes that red lip not look so classic.” $15 each; makeupforever.com.
2. Blend Clarins multi-blush cream in Grenadine onto cheeks and around the edges of the eyes for a touch of drama. $30; clarins.com.
3. “If you go crazy with the eye makeup, keep the lips simple,” says Salvatierra, who applied MAC lip pencil in Cyber World all over the lips. “The matte finish looks much more sophisticated when the flash hits it.” $16.50; maccosmetics.com.
This story first appeared in the Aug. 29 issue of Billboard magazine.
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