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When it comes to the man-jean scene these days, stylist Ilaria Urbinati says guys are going for “slim over skinny,” favoring styles that “aren’t quite as painted-on.” Even with wiggle room, though, it’s important to maintain a narrow fit at the hem: “Unlike suit pants, which we usually tailor with half a break to no break, on jeans a little length works as long as they’re quite tapered at the ankle,” says Urbinati, whose go-to styles for such clients as Ryan Reynolds, Bradley Cooper, Chris Evans, Tom Hiddleston and Rami Malek include J?Brand, Acne and Simon Miller (“for a looser silhouette”).
Also trending is the “carrot cut,” a style that’s extra slouchy in the crotch and thigh area but narrow at the bottom. “Levi’s is doing a good version that’s only sold at Josh Peskowitz’s new store, Magasin,” in Culver City, says the stylist.
With washes, the pendulum has swung the other way: In contrast to a few years ago, when guys lived in raw denim, there’s increased demand for “softer, broken-in jeans” and vintage-style selvedge (Re/Dun’s and Levi’s versions are popular). Comfort remains king. “Every guy I dress — big or small, tall or short — loves J?Brand’s Tyler in the Harper wash because it feels like they’re wearing sweatpants,” says Urbinati. “They’ll even request them for long flights.”
Bottom line, today’s jean is comfortable yet slim and a little broken in but with “no weird bullshit,” she adds: “No whiskers, creative washes, bad stitching or oversize back pockets with crazy logos — just say no.”
Brooks skinny trouser in Eiffel Tower; $178 (available this fall), jbrandjeans.com.
Town slim-fit washed denim jean; $280, mrporter.com.
Tailorshop 501?x Magasin jeans; $295, at Magasin, Culver City.
A version of this story first appeared in the May 20 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.
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