Haider Ackermann is stepping down from his position as the creative director of luxury menswear label Berluti, effective immediately. His successor has not yet been named, however parent company LVMH notes that the position will be filled “shortly.”
“Haider has been at the core of the evolution of Berluti’s collections and image these past few seasons,” said CEO Antoine Arnault in a statement. “His feel for materials, colours, and his wonderful shows will always be linked to the history of the House.”
“I am immensely proud to have been able to put my creativity at the service of this House with an exceptional know-how, whilst working with a passionate team,” added Ackermann. “I thank them for their commitment.”
Ackermann joined Berluti in September of 2016, replacing Alessandro Sartori, after 15 years at the helm of his own eponymous women’s label, which was renowned for its androgynous styles and draping techniques and beloved by the likes of Tilda Swinton.
In just 18 months at the helm of LVMH-owned menswear brand, Ackermann cultivated relationships with several of Hollywood’s leading men, most notably the self-styled newcomer Timothee Chalamet, who wore a custom white Berluti tuxedo at the Oscars earlier this month. He also rocked the brand several times throughout his Call Me By Your Name press tour. (The label’s Instagram account looks almost like a shrine to the young actor.)
Ackermann recently posted an endearing black-and-white photo of himself with the 22-year-old actor with the caption, “for u little Bro — JUST TO BE TACKY!” Which, like, swoon.
His feminine-leaning menswear designs, which were shown on both men and women on the runway, were also favored by Mahershala Ali (who wore Berluti at the 2018 Oscars) as well as Usher.
It’s been a busy month for LVMH, which has shuffled its arsenal of menswear designers among its various luxury labels, and recruited Virgil Abloh as the menswear designer of Louis Vuitton in the process. Outgoing LV menswear designer Kim Jones was appointed at Dior Homme, filling the role which had recently been vacated by Kris Van Assche. Van Assche has not yet announced his next move, though LVMH’s note that there may be a position for the Belgian designer within the company has already led to speculation that he could be taking the reigns at Berluti.
No word yet on Ackermann’s next move, however we wouldn’t be surprised to see the designer fill the opening at Lanvin (vacated last week) thanks to his similar design aesthetic. Karl Lagerfeld once noted that he wanted to see the designer fill his shoes at Chanel, but then walked back that sentiment saying that the French luxury brand is “not his world.” Regardless, we’ll be keeping an eye on this one.
