Golden Globes Men's Fashion Preview: The End of Peacocking?
Tuxes are harkening back to black, the result of fashion's inevitable pendulum swing and politics, with sympathy for #MeToo. But dark neutrals don't have to be boring.
Call it the end of peacocking. After years of a rainbow of colors on the red carpet, men's tuxes are harkening back to classic black, the result of fashion's inevitable pendulum swing - and politics, with solidatiry for #MeToo. Ilaria Urbinati, who styles many leading men, including Globe nomiee Armie Hammer, posted on Instagram that "all my guys will be" wearing black; The Rock responded, "Yes we will."
Providing increased options are Zegna Couture and Dior Homme's Black Carpet spring collection, with embellished beaded jackets. Notably, Tom Ford, whose jackets often sport wild prints and vivid hues, now emphasizes black tux jackets with a tone-on-tone jacquard or polka dots.
Dark neutrals don't have to be boring. With black tie, one can bring "depth by playing with silhouettes and contrasting lapels," says Michael Fisher (who is styling nominees Hugh Jackman and Sam Rockwell): "We're seeing more three-piece tuxedos with vests and double-breasted."
Style consultant Andrew Weitz adds that there are ways to express personality: "If you go to awards ceremonies, you can add a novelty tuxedo shirt" — a big trend this season. He recommends Gucci creative head Alessandro Michele's signature collection, with front bibs and cuffs embroidered with flowers. (Fisher cites "an amazing" Prada with micro-embroidered detail that hasn't yet hit stores but is being shown to stylists.) Evening shirts in subtle colors are another way to add flair. Stylist Jeanne Yang, who's outfitting Big Little Lies nominee Alexander Skarsgard, adds that midnight blue or "navy, the rich man's black … looks beautiful on camera."
With a classic black tux, sneakers are verboten; stick to "a classic patent leather loafer or lace-up, or a slipper," says Weitz. Even industry hipsters hitting the carpet for the first time find a black tux appealing. "Really fit-driven works well on fashion guys," says stylist Sonia Young, who is dressing actor Joe Keery of Stranger Things. "Black is always 'in.' "
CLOCKED ON THE CARPET
By Laurie Broookins
Once discreetly tucked beneath shirt cuffs, men's status watches may be among the most high-profile fashion statements at the Golden Globes.
"Because so many men are expected to wear black this year, a great watch is their opportunity to inject personality into their look," says star stylist Jeanne Yang, who theorizes that the more ornate pieces favored by athletes and rap artists may start to fidn their way onto awards-show red carpets. To ensure that a timepiece can be seen, she "asks Anto, the great shirtmaker in Beverly Hills, to add just a quarter-inch more room in the shirt cuff," she says, while an Ermenegildo Zegna shirt with a wider-than-usual cuff helped her client Alexander Skarsgard won for his supporting role in Big Little Lies: "He held up his Emmy, and the Omega Seamaster we had chosen was seen very prominently."
Still, though sought-after watches for the red carpet run the gamut from bolder Cartiers and Omegas to highly personal vintage pieces, most stylists agree that an ultra-classic look is preferred over a newer timepiece that features the latest bells and whistles. Says Clare Hallworth, who with sister Nina styles Jake Gyllenhaal: "Classics last beyond a current trend."
This story first appeared in the Jan. 4 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.