Inside the Red Carpet-Ready Dior Spring Men's Show
Christina Ricci, Kelly Osbourne and supermodel Kate Moss with her daughter Lila Grace crowded into the front row for a pretty pastel-hued collection, also a theme in L.A. designer Mike Amiri's collection.
Since debuting at Dior Homme a year ago, creative director Kim Jones has brought a certain gender-bending beauty to his menswear designs — so much so that the ladies also covet the elegant, soft-yet-tailored suiting so prevalent in his collections. Indeed, the front row of the spring-summer 2020 show was filled with just as many female fans decked out in his men’s designs — among them TV host Kelly Osbourne, actress Christina Ricci, supermodel Kate Moss and her daughter Lila Grace Moss Hack, musician Lily Allen and actress Noomi Rapace — alongside guys such as actor Nick Robinson, NBA All-Star Russell Westbrook and musicians Miguel and J Balvin.
Jones (who has teamed up with an number of artists during his tenure at Dior), set the stage in a collaboration with New York City-based artist Daniel Arsham, who created a “Future Relic” clock, telephone and coat rack in one corner of the entrance as an ode to original elements that Christian Dior surrounded himself with, designed to appear as if they had been pulled from an archaeological dig. The runway was also decorated with sculptural stone letters that spelled out “DIOR,” chipped away to reveal lavender crystals. A similar technique appeared on a leather trench with a crackled surface and a sweater woven to look like a cracked stone. The floor of the set was a carpet of sand that bled from white into a deep pink to solidify the pretty aesthetic of the pieces.
As a refreshing new twist on red carpet-ready looks, Jones proposed a pastel palette for spring of powdery blues, pinks and grays, often shown with a brooch crafted of calcified lily of the valley flowers. He reimagined the tuxedo in a softer silhouette with the signature flowing satin sash (introduced last year) running diagonally through the suit and often sweeping the floor, while lapels got new life with satin trim on single side-button jackets or double-breasted styles.
For day, there were sheer georgette button-fronts and jumpsuits for showing off a toned physique, and (for the more demure) a white crocodile jumpsuit was shown along with white organza bomber jackets, trench coats and T-shirts embroidered with rich blue or orange plissé accents. Smartly tailored khakis made a new case for pleats. Toile de Jouy, a house staple, was fashioned into zip-front jumpsuits and shorts with matching button-front shirts. And the famous newspaper print created for the brand 20 years ago when John Galliano held the reins was resurrected on shirts.
A new collaboration with fellow LVMH brand Rimowa gave the Dior man an array of man bags in the brand's signature grooved aluminum, from mini-clutches, top-handled cases and backpacks to champagne carriers and cabin bags. Footwear included transparent rubber wellies that showcased a new line of Dior socks. Jones' use of color may have sparked the latest wave of pastel seen on the spring 2020 menswear runways in Paris.
L.A.-based fashion designer Mike Amiri also lightened up the typically dark rock 'n' roll look of his Amiri collection by turning to pastel blues, pinks and mint green on tailored suiting and double-breasted vests. Jackets were embellished, some with embroidered stripes inspired by guitar straps (a clever brand signature created last season). The upscale bohemian aesthetic was a nod to the spirit of the Woodstock music festival, celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, and included a jean jacket airbrushed with images of Jimi Hendrix.