London Fashion Week Spring 2013: Roksanda Illincic's New Direction

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A British director popular with Hollywood takes a new course: volume, color, and schoolgirl collars.

If New York Fashion Week gave us the drop waist and the LLD (Little Lace Dress) for spring, now London Fashion Week is bringing a whole new set of trends.

Roksanda Illincic, who's dressed Kate Middleton, Amber Heard, Kate Bosworth and many other Hollywood actresses, is usually sexy and red carpet ready. But for spring, she's added volume and even more color blocking to her look -- plus collars and cuffs -- the sure sign of the schoolgirl look. 

Blouses or dresses with collars and cuffs (meaning the sleeves have a bit of soft puffy volume and close in a cuff), often in contrasting colors like orange on a white blouse or cobalt on white, have a youthful innocent feeling and are definitely more girly than sexy. Illincic showed them on all manner of dresses -- short, mid length, long -- and she had a dress length for every occassion with longer sleeves and fuller skirts than she's shown in the past. There's definitely a "new volume" feeling, similar to Prabal Gurung's amazing softer spring collection and Oscar de la Renta's gowns in New York, in Illincic's day and eveningwear. Many looks were also shown with soft, oversized berets.

So how will this impact Illincic's Hollywood clientele? Will waify actresses want to do Little House on the Prairie for spring? If they can start wearing these looks when it gets cooler this fall, they'll fly. (This was more like a fall collection than a spring one.)

As for nighttime looks, she used a semi-sheer plastic stiff fabric for those same silhouettes -- the innocent girl ones -- at night. So there was sheerness and shine and futurism all at once. The only problem was, she lost the sex appeal.

So for those ladies wanting to show off their fashion chops, these are looks to adopt. For those wanting to show skin, this might not be the way to go.