Milan Day 3: Versace Glam Slam; Etro's Boho Beat; La Perla Launches Kim Kardashian-Ready RTW
THR's senior fashion editor Booth Moore reports on the glitzy coming and goings on day three of Milan Fashion Week.
“Sportswear is the future of fashion.”
That was the word from Donatella Versace, after she presented her spring collection at Milan Fashion Week to a crowd that included tennis giant Serena Williams.
Call it sportswear, streetwear or whatever you like, but she’s right; casual wear is the future of fashion, and the present, as evidenced by how many editors in the front row this week are dressed in haute pajamas and Gucci fur-lined slides, like they just rolled out of a very chic bed. Comfort is king, ahem, queen, and has been for some time.
And even the famously sexy Italian designers are coming around to it, from the bedazzled blue evening pajama set that was the finale at the Giorgio Armani show Friday morning, to the Teva-like sport sandals on the runway at Versace Friday night. That's right, Tevas at Versace!
Versace’s Glam Slam
Playing off the power women zeitgeist (hello, Hillary Clinton) that has been a surprisingly small part of this season's fashion proceedings, Donatella sent out a strong lineup of athletic-inspired, color-blocked leggings, windbreakers, wrap skirts and tailored power suits, worn by Naomi Campbell, Gigi and Bella Hadid, fashion’s reigning superwomen.
SUPER CHIC: Gigi Hadid (left), Adriana Lima and Bella Hadid walk in Versace's spring 2017 presentation. (Photos: Getty Images)
Some pieces came in dynamic patterns, with baroque swirls and racy checkerboards, others in sporty lace knit.
For evening, she reinvented red carpet dressing. Gone are the days of sausage-casing, safety-pinned Versace gowns; in their place, the designer showed jigsaws of jersey and crystal mesh, pleats and wrapped panels, made for women on the move.
This is a collection that should appeal to next gen women, ones for whom fashion royalty isn’t Gianni Versace era Princess Diana but today's social media star Chiara Ferragnini, a.k.a. The Blonde Salad, who was literally mobbed by iPhone wielding teenage fans on her way out of this show and every show here this week.
Etro’s Boho Dreams
Etro is another Italian brand that has successfully reinvented itself, going from something your mom or grandmother might wear, to being on the pulse of the boho beat, thanks in no small part to Hollywood fans, including Beyonce, Florence Welch, Kate Bosworth and more, and a healthy dose of Coachella dressing.
COACHELLA CALLING: Looks from Etro's spring 2017 presentation. (Photos: Getty Images)
The spring collection was a lesson in expert layering, with tribal embroideries and ethnic patterns galore — a shrunken jacket over a diaphanous paisley dress, jog bras over patchwork moto pants and Berber knit capes over maxi skirts. The Led Zeppelin soundtrack made it all that much better. It was louche luxe at its patchouli-scented finest.
Kim Kardashian-ready RTW at La Perla
Speaking of louche luxe, designers have already been exploring the idea of pajamas as outerwear, so why not lingerie? The famous Italian lingerie label La Perla, whose bras, bodysuits and swimwear are already being worn by Kim Kardashian, Caroline Vreeland, Rita Ora and many other celebs, is taking the idea of inner wear to the outside.
Julia Haart, the brand's new creative director, launched her first ready-to-wear collection in a series of presentations Friday, including white shirts with built-in bras and contouring seams, blazers with corset details and hooks, double face silk floral pajama tops, blazers and pants. But don't call it shape wear, it's designed to be fitted and stretch but not constrict the body. All pieces are sized by bra cup and clothing size, so you could have a C cup extra small or a C cup extra large.
LA PERLA LADIES: Caroline Vreeland (left), Julia Haart, blogger Shea Marie and DJ Mia Moretti at La Perla's spring 2017 presentation. (Photo: Courtesy of La Perla)
"Today's woman wants to look beautiful but she doesn't want to suffer any more," says Haart, who is also designing a capsule collection of gowns with the red carpet crowd in mind. "She wants bras that support her without suffocating her; she wants pants that she feels like she can go to sleep in. How can you feel confident when you are sitting there wishing they could go home and change into pajamas?"
Making clothes work for you, that sounds like the future.