New York Fashion Week: Oscar de la Renta Celebrates 50 Years (and the Arrival of John Galliano)

Oscar De La Renta Fall 2013 - H 2013
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Oscar De La Renta Fall 2013 - H 2013

The celebrated society designer's fall 2013 runway show lured Diane von Furstenberg, Rachel Zoe and Valentino.

WHO: Oscar de la Renta

WHAT: Fall 2013 runway show New York

WHEN: February 12, 2013

THE FRONT ROW: Valentino and partner Giancarlo Giammetti, Diane von Furstenberg and Barry Diller, Rachel Zoe, Brad Goreski, Estee Lauder's John Demsey

THE MOOD/INSPIRATION: The presentation kicked off with the photographers’ pit singing "Happy Birthday" as the lights dimmed, marking the New York designer’s 50th year in business and possibly an exciting new era for the fashion house. Dior’s former head designer John Galliano, who has been casually working alongside de la Renta, didn’t take a final bow at the show, but he was present and he definitely made his mark on the collection in the form of daytime balloon-peplums, patent leather and wool felt cloche hats, billowing chiffon capes and edgier glam-goth makeup. Of course, there were plenty of de la Renta signatures — silk organza gowns with feather and crystal embellishments, Chantilly lace, ladylike pencil skirts and tailored tweedy day suits. "I liked [it] so much," said Mr. Valentino to THR. "Many of the day suits were chic, and the ballgowns were classic Oscar. I really liked the combination of the colors. I might lose the hats," he said discreetly, about the tall rounded felt creations that graced the beginning part of the show -- almost like lampshades in felt, Parisian lampshades (tres Galliano). But, he added, "I so much like the rest of the collection."

COLORS/FABRICS: Teal, aubergine, ruby red, navy, shocking pink and citrine. "Beautiful colors!" exclaimed Goreski, who’s styling Jessica Alba, Stacy Keibler, Jenna Dewan Tatum and Rashida Jones for Oscar night. There was flannel, wool boucle, tweed, silk chiffon, velvet, organza and toile prints done in ruby, ivory and citirine.

KEY TRENDS: Peplums, voluminous balloon ballgowns, draped coats, tied skinny belts (not buckled). 

RELEVANCE TO HOLLYWOOD: Jennifer Garner, Kerry Washington, Zooey Deschanel, Anne Hathaway, Lea Michele, Jessica Biel, Allison Williams and Ginnifer Goodwin are just a few of the stylish stars that love to wear de la Renta’s classic, glamorous, statement-making gowns on the red carpet. This collection makes Oscar's daywear chicness ready-to-wear on a nighttime red carpet.

RED CARPET WATCH: The final ballgowns that shut down the show would definitely shut down any major red carpet — a billowy Russian ikat gown with a dramatic low-high hem or a shocking pink silk faille gown with gold bouillon scroll and bead embroidery? We’re hoping to see some Oscar for Oscars, indeed. Meanwhile, it might have been the feeling that Oscar will soon retire from a brilliant career - and certainly, one of his most beautiful collections - or that Galliano is waiting in the wings. There was an added air of theatricality to the proceedings with each group of looks accompanied by very dramatic makeup -- and slicked, molded Goth style hair -- that made everything about this collection SO emotional. The audience seemed very moved -- and very anticipatory of what will come next. From what we could see, chicness alert ahead!!!!!!!