NYFW Day 6: Hood by Air's X-Rated Collab; Proenza's Museum Pieces; Thom Browne's Socialites on Acid
THR's senior fashion editor Booth Moore reports on the glitzy coming and goings on day 6 of New York Fashion Week.
Is it still going on? Yes, New York Fashion Week is still going on. On Day 6, the runway shows continued with the calm, cool and collected elegance of Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen’s The Row, placeholder collections from Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera (both houses recently announced new designers who haven’t had a chance to start yet), and some spirited shenanigans from Jeremy Scott, Proenza Schouler and Thom Browne in between.
Here are my takeaways.
Taking it off on the runways
On Sunday, Hood By Air, the gender-bending, streetwear-hip hop collection from designer and WME client Shayne Oliver, drew attention not only for its starry front row (Jaden Smith, Naomi Campbell, Jussie Smollett), but also for having the dubious distinction of being the first runway show ever to be sponsored by a porn site, Pornhub.com.
Well, today came word that the designer, who has dressed Rihanna, 2Chainz and Kendrick Lamar among others, is collaborating with the adult entertainment site on a clothing line that's no doubt directed at the millennial "gen porn." That’s right, a line of bodysuits, hoodies and long sleeved shirts to be sold on a site dedicated to taking it all off. (It's not the first time; both Hustler and Playboy both had apparel licenses.)
GEN PORN: A model on the Hood by Air spring 2017 runway. (Photo: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage)
In a press statement, Oliver said he was looking to "collaborate with businesses that had liberal ideas and spirits.” He continued, "Pornhub is way beyond that, I feel like it's a great way of selling ideas."
Pornhub vice president Corey Price said of the collaboration, "Shayne Oliver has seamlessly deconstructed the boundaries of fashion and created a brand that emanates edginess and defies convention. Here at Pornhub, through the past year, we've successfully diversified our brand, penetrating an assortment of verticals, including fashion." The collection will debut in early 2017.
There were also X-rated moments at Jeremy Scott’s 1980s-themed "Slime City" runway show Monday morning, but more the nostalgic sort that brought back memories of Times Square before it became Disneyfied.
T-shirts spelled out "X-rated" and "Hot, Hot, Hot;" mini skirts came slashed and safety-pinned, and dresses fishnet-legs printed. It was all in good (not so clean) fun.
X-RATED: A model on the Jeremy Scott spring 2017 runway. (Photo: Randy Brooke/WireImage)
No titillation required
Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez can turn heads without the the lure of an X-rated T-shirt or so much as a single celebrity guest. The spring lineup they presented Monday afternoon was no exception.
"It was a little of this, and a little of that,” Hernandez said backstage of the modern art-meets-artisanal offering, a spontaneous mix of colorful knits, asymmetric pleating, strategic cutouts, classical sculpture imagery, lush woven leather and feather trim, that unfurled onto the runway like a museum's worth of creative expression.
The designers understand their customers, and they are art world aficionados. Which may be why every piece they design feels like a collector's item.
I asked Hernandez when Proenza Schouler will be opening in L.A. "We’re working on it," he said. Not fast enough!
MUSEUM-WORTHY: Models on the Proenza Schouler spring 2017 runway. (Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images)
Palm Beach socialites on acid
One of the favorite things to do upon watching a Thom Browne show, is to imagine what must have been going through that amazing head of his. This season, I came up with "Palm Beach socialites on acid."
The scenery, a tiled floor resembling an old swimming pool, was assembled in just a few days. It became the backdrop for a bevy of bathing beauties, in floral caftans and shower caps who gathered on the runway, then disrobed, revealing Browne’s meticulously-crafted jackets, shift dresses and skirts painstakingly engineered in seersucker, tweed, vinyl florals, organza ribbon and more.
It’s a good thing the models walked so slowly, so you could see all the incredible work that went into these clothes. Already an eyeful, the show also had in the mix a guy in a cat costume, and two others in full on feathered bird regalia. And for a finale? A mirrored Hector headpiece that transformed into a disco ball.
Now you see where the acid part came in. Browne's imagination knows no bounds. I hear he's got a short fashion film in the works next, which makes perfect sense.
BATHING BEAUTIES: Models on the Thom Browne spring 2017 runway. (Photo: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/FilmMagic)
All aboard the 'see now, buy now' bandwagon
News came late in the day that another major American designer is jumping on the "see now, buy now" bandwagon following Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and others. Ralph Lauren told Vogue magazine, "Showing clothes, then delivering them six months later, it’s over." He continued, "With the Internet, social media, you have to change."
Lauren will present his fall 2016 collection — again — on Wednesday evening at his Madison Avenue flagship, and it will be immediately shoppable. So nice, they’re showing it twice, the collection was first presented at fashion week in February. Watch this space and I will tell you about it. Again.