Oscar de la Renta's Peter Copping: "I Wanted to Bring a Little Bit of Paris to New York"

Oscar de la Renta sPLIT - H 2015
AP Photo/Bryan R. Smith

The designer, who showed beautiful red-and-black looks inspired by Spain, wanted his presentation to be reminiscent of a couture salon.

For his second runway show, Oscar de la Renta’s creative director Peter Copping decided to move to a new venue instead of the fashion house’s 42nd Street design studio — bittersweet, but it’s all part of moving forward into the next exciting chapter at ODLR.

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“Last season I felt it was incredibly important for us to do the show in Oscar’s house, it was there for the last few years and it felt like home. But I think that space was limiting and there wasn’t much room — and the elevators would sometimes get stuck,” Copping told Pret-a-Reporter of presenting his spring 2016 collection at The Prince George Ballroom. “I wanted it to feel quite like a couture salon and to bring that little bit of Paris and things that I am familiar with here to New York. For the house, that sits very comfortably because Oscar worked in Paris.”

Amidst a season of pink, Copping stood out with bold red — lots of carnation red — black and floral motifs. “We had a lot of pink in the collection as well, but looking through it, I decided that I really liked the idea of going stronger and more with the red tones,” says Copping of the looks that were inspired by Spain.

“I was thinking about what Oscar himself was passionate about and what inspired him and just going [to Spain] and finding my own take on it. The combination of red and black was always present. There was a black chiffon dress but it was lined in red — it’s such a strong color.”

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 When asked what he’d love to see most on Hollywood’s red carpet, Copping responded, “Oh my God, where shall I start? That’s quite the long list!” We couldn’t agree more — there was an embarrassment of riches for stylists and actresses to choose from (stylists Rachel Zoe and Cristina Ehrlich were both seated front-row) whether a black tulle and ruby flower embroidered gown with a high ruffled neckline; a lilac silk taffeta and black grosgrain accented gown; or a light aqua taffeta ballgown with drawstring detailing that closed the show.

“It depends because there are two sorts of red carpets aren’t there? There’s the award shows like the Oscars and Globes with the gowns — for that, I think the black dress with separate lace sleeves. It would look very good and it would feel very different. Then, there are some really great little cocktail dresses. I think the carnation motif could be a bold choice— the dress with a tiny floral pattern worn at Cannes would be perfect. I’ll have to get working on that...”

Copping's mood board for the Spring 2016 Oscar de la Renta collection.

Fabric swatches for the Spring 2016 runway show.