Dior Pares Down for Conservative Couture Collection
It was calm, cool and collected as Katie Holmes, Kate Bosworth, Emma Roberts and Mandy Moore came out for Maria Grazia Chiuri's ode to the craft of couture.
It was back to basics for Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, with a couture collection devoted to simplicity and structure. Gone were the gimmicks of her Surrealist collection in January and 1960s patchwork collection in February, as the designer took her inspiration from the fabrics made inch-by-inch and stitch-by-stitch in age-old factories.
After the show Kate Bosworth called it a collection of "sugar confections" with dresses in blush, rose, champagne and cream, as well as nude and navy. There were few prints or patterns here, and just one bright burst of red. All strong construction and clean lines, it might even be called conservative. The gowns were lovely and should get a lot of red carpet play from the packed front row that included Zoey Deutch, Katie Holmes, Mandy Moore, Emma Roberts, Margaret Qualley, and French actresses Amira Casar and Ana Girardot.
A clarifying antidote to the clutter of streetwear and fast fashion, perhaps — though set in a perfectly Instagrammable installation comprised of 300 toile patterns that guests took full advantage of (even Holmes was busy posting from her front-row perch) — the collection was "both restrained and explosive … a psychological place of female resistance," according to the show notes.
Grazia Chiuri was on the forefront of the feminist messaging long before #MeToo with her "We Should All Be Feminists" slogan tee. But can one challenge the establishment in a $20,000 dress? Grazia Chiuri seems to think so: "Couture becomes akin to rebellion: a kind of ideological 'guerrilla' that explodes on the frontiers of entrenched tradition without ever overstepping them."
That’s a fine line to tread.
Moore's own slogan tee read "Free Our Selves," but she joked that there "wasn't much thought put into it, except I knew it was going to be hot." The bride-to-be (she's engaged to musician Taylor Goldsmith) looked on intensely, taking lots of photos from the front row. "I'm looking for an Emmys dress and a wedding dress," she told Pret-a-Reporter. "I'm pretty open in terms of the Emmy situation, but the wedding dress I want to keep it simple and classic and maybe not white."
Qualley was taking in shows before she starts shooting Against All Enemies next week in L.A. "It's so exciting because I've never done a movie in Los Angeles. I kind of thought all movies were made in L.A., but it turns out no movies are actually made in L.A. anymore,” joked the Montana native. She's getting into character on the 1960s-set film via the costumes. While Kristen Stewart plays iconic actress Jean Seberg, Qualley wouldn't divulge more about her role.
Bosworth talked about her passion project, the immigrant sex trafficking film Nona, which she produced and stars in, and which was written and directed by her husband Michael Polish. The film just got picked up for release this fall. "We didn't know setting out almost two years ago that it would be as timely as it is," she said about the debate surrounding immigration in the U.S. "Seeing the immigrants from Central America looking for asylum, they are vulnerable to being taken into human trafficking. We live in a world that's so detached, we're able to swipe left or right on people and who or what we want to look at. We made the movie to hopefully impart more empathy."
The ceiling of the event space was mirrored — what is that but a reflection of the audience? It was clear we've moved past the moment of the slogan tee.