Rag & Bone Resets With Designer's Solo Debut

Rag & Bone SS17 - Getty - 2017
Edward James/Getty Images

Marcus Wainwright shows his first collection since his partner departed the label.

Now Rag & Bone's lone designer since the departure of David Neville earlier this year, Marcus Wainwright made sure to stay true to the label's DNA for his solo debut at the spring 2017 show. Athletic wear (just don't call it athleisure) was a strong undercurrent, as the brand's core utilitarian, Brit prep meets New York street vibe shone strong.

Based on the collection—from the nylon ponchos and anoraks to the leather bomber jackets and perfectly slouchy crewneck sweatshirts—it seems Wainwright is expecting a rainy, if not downright chilly, spring season. (Reality check: Spring collections technically land in stores in February/March, when it's still cold in much of the world.)

Rag & Bone denim — once Hollywood's favorite go-to for skinny jeans — also returned to the catwalk, updated for today in a fuller-cut, engineer silhouette in shades of black and indigo selvaged denim. It looked good, more substantial.

WARM UP: Looks from Rag & Bone's spring 2017 presentation. (Photos: Getty Images)

As always, the accessories were stars in their own right. Vibrant red leather mules popped against a heather gray terry sweat suit, while a large leather fanny pack was styled both as cross-body sack and hip-hugging pouch; and a silver infinity choker added a touch of polish and cool to a pleated khaki skirt, slung low on the hips.

Carmelo Anthony, Hannah Davis, model Sean O'pry and Star Wars' Oscar Isaac were among the handful of Wainwright's celebrity fans who took in the show —  which once again featured original works from Radiohead's resident oddball Thom Yorke on the soundtrack.